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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Wilkinson's Lookout Environs [ Gorge Guide ]

Author

Ozymandias free eliminate

butters

13-Feb-2004
4:17:55 PM

i was looking for any available beta on ozy. free eliminate (excluding the second pitch, were not that hard yet :)

nmonteith

13-Feb-2004
4:22:02 PM

What sort of beta? As far as i know it hasn't had a second free ascent...

butters

17-Feb-2004
9:51:58 AM

anything you have heard if possible. another question aswell, have you climbed holden caulfield? we spied the line from ozy direct last december and it looks wild! apparently someone took a huge screamer from above the roof and ripped out all the rivets? bathooking up there would be kinda scary. any info would be great. thanks

nmonteith

17-Feb-2004
12:16:37 PM

You gotta be a bloody hard man to lead it! Simon Carter has shot some stills of Steve doing the FFA - maybe he can lend some light..

I have heard it involves grade 29 stemming on RP's. Free grades from memory go..

22, 28, 29, 24, 29, 22, 22 ?? i think

butters

17-Feb-2004
7:24:51 PM

cool cool thanks for that. were definateley not up to the second pitch (29) but we hope to work the third pitch into submision and the rest should be ok, scary but doable :-)

AndyCJ

18-Feb-2004
12:39:04 PM

Neil was close... but no cigar.

Found these on onsignt.com with a picture of steve

Steve Monks, Ozymandias Direct pitch six (28, 270 metres), on the North Wall, Mount Buffalo, Victoria, Australia. Pitches are 22,28,26,24,22,28,23 and 24.

http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/features/fava/07.htm

mikl law

18-Feb-2004
12:45:26 PM

From vague memory I think
1) Good rock in the corners
2) lots of pre-inspection to see where gear goes. The ethical way to do this is climb it a few times, if you don't have time to waste, just rap it.
3) It's not that long, it looks like only about 180m really, I could be totally wrong though.

Onsight

18-Feb-2004
1:39:15 PM

Ozy direct is definitely THE route to do... AndyCJ has got it right w the grades as far as I can remember… I think Steve may have originally thought pitch two to be 29, but may have later changed his mind, hence the confusion there. Anyway, it’s a desperate pitch, smearing, bridging, and take lots of small RP’s…

You might have a good idea there though Butters, if you aid that pitch, and the crux section of the sixth pitch (just the bit up to the roof – the roof is 25 and corner above 24) then you’ve got yourself an ultra classic, up to grade 26, but a lot around 24 or so…

There are more photos in the Buffalo gallery on my site at:
http://www.onsight.com.au/gallery/aust/vic/buffalo/main.htm
and also in the book Rock Climbing in Aust.

Mikl might be right, it might not be that long (those things used to feel soo big). But I reckon ground up would be the most fun.

Have fun! It’s an awesome route. If it were in Europe or US, then they’d be queuing to try and free it…

Simon Carter

butters

18-Feb-2004
2:21:00 PM

thanks heaps everyone, i will let you all know how we go.

nmonteith

18-Feb-2004
2:45:41 PM

Steve Monks, who did the FFA, will be up at Buffalo from the 6th-21st of March. Maybe you can get some first hand tips off the grandmaster!

adamk

18-Feb-2004
5:42:03 PM

Hey what about a chockstone interview of Steve Monks...?????!!!!!!!

Onsight

18-Feb-2004
7:50:36 PM

On 18/02/2004 adamk wrote:
>Hey what about a chockstone interview of Steve Monks...?????!!!!!!!

Apparently that's in the pipeline.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

18-Oct-2005
11:39:21 AM

On 18/02/2004 butters wrote:
>thanks heaps everyone, i will let you all know how we go.

Any feedback?

There are 13 messages in this topic.