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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Neilson Crag (General) (General)  

Gippsland cliffs
1:43:47 PM
Just trying to figure out where I can find info on Neilsons Crag the watchtower, from what I can find on there are obviously routes done in the area, just after some descriptions. I have a fair bit of work in the future at nearby Licola and was after SOME climbing nearby. Seems to be some potential south of licola on the road to Heyfield around Cheynes Bridge or Wollangarra camp. Anyone bothered to walk in????

3:26:54 PM
Access and some route descriptions for Neilsons Crags are in the VCC Eastern Victoria guidebook
(2002) which is available in most climbing shops.

The climbing is certainly very 'adventerous' - lots of choss rock and complex route finding on many of
the established routes. The walk-in is quite short - maybe 20 minutes along a flat graded track. You
will also need a 4WD to get doen the last 10km of the access road. I took my Subaru impreza down
there last weekend and I punctured a tyre and shook the car into a broken heap.

I foudn most of the previously recorded routes looked totally choss, or involved a long hiem down to
the base. Last easter I did two good two pitch routes that have a rap in - climb out approuch. Teh rock
quality on these was much better than some of the other routes. Crucifixion (19) was particually good.
Here are the route descriptions for the additional climbs that myself and a few others have done in the
last 12 months which are NOT in the Eastern Victoria guide.


Nielsons Crags, Gippsland
Main Wall

From the eastern end of the Watchtower (10 minutes walk from camp) continue heading north and
uphill slightly along the tops of the cliff line until you pick up rock cairns. These lead up a hill through
some scrub for five minutes then head west down a small ridge to arrive at the top of the Main Wall. A
giant cairn on top of this cliff is directly above the bolted rap anchor (2 FHs). Total walking time from
carpark is easy 15-20 minutes.

These routes start on a vegetated ledge which is accessed by two abseils (or fixed ropes). We
recommend fixing one 50m rope down to the first bolted belay then rapping with a doubled single 60m
rope to the vegetated ledge and pulling this rope. This saves the chance of getting ropes stuck or
pulling rubble onto you from the top of the cliff on the first abseil. There is a 30m cliff directly under the
vegetated ledge which could yield a good first pitch in the future. Wear helmets!

** Crucifixion 65m 19 [trad]
Most likely the best ‘line’ in the area. The first pitch is a landmark sustained orange corner with good
pro and finger locks the whole way up. Pitch 1 27m 19 – Up the corner taking care near the finish when
the rock quality deteriates. Belay off two FH’s on tiny stance (these are the same anchors you rapped
down to from the top). Pitch 2 38m 16 – Climb thin slabby seam directly above belay for six metres to
stance on small ledge below ‘tooth’ of rock. Jam and layback up this tooth pillar until the angle eases.
Scramble to top. FFA Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt (alt) 26.3.2005

* Resurrection 64m 22/23 [mixed]
Just like a Frog Buttress arête. Pronounced edge to the right of Crucifixion’s first pitch. Belay off small
gum below the arête. Pitch 1 26m 23 - Five BR’s then the angle eases to under-protected trad romp up
slab to trad belay two metres right of Crucifixion’s bolted belay. Pitch 2 38m 18 – Excellent thin face
crack up wall directly above (2m left of juggy corner). Pro is difficult to place in the upper section.
Finish by rambling up easy jugs to bolted anchor as for Crucifixion. FFA Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt
(alt) 27.3.2005

Deflated Dreams 20m 18 [trad]
The right facing corner about 3m right of the last pitch of Resurrection. Chossy start with a few nasty
death blocks and then eventually turns into nice corner crack. At end of corner step right and scramble
up to ledge and belay bolts. FA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 11.3.2006

Curse Of The Flat Battery 25m 17 [mixed]
Was supposed to be a multi-pitch classic – but the drill didn’t co-operate. Starts on small ledge (no
belay anchors) about 5m right and 2m down of the start of pitch 2 of Crucifixion. Rap into this belay
stance from new DBB located on ledge about 15m below and slightly east of the rap anchors on
Crucifixion. Climb the major left facing orange corner crack with single FH down low. Top-out is a
scary pile of tottering blocks. Enjoy. Another 40m pitch could be added below. FA Neil Monteith &
Hannah Lockie 11.3.2006

3:28:37 PM
Photos of our routes are here...

9:15:09 PM
Why don't you get a copy of the Eastern Victoria Guide Book? It's got Neilson Crag and every thing else in Gippsland that's not top secret.

It's my understanding that the crags you see on the way to Licola (McMillan's Lookout) are worthless conglomerate choss.

This may seem a bit harsh, but you can't expect climbing in Gippsland to be of the standard you expect out west.

James Mc

PS Neil, shouldn't you be out climbing on Saturday afternoon?

8:21:11 PM
Just a quick question James, What the hell is there in Gippsland thats not complete choss, has Huge walkins or is top secret, and if there is an Arapiles of Gippsland why is it so Secret. I live in Gippsland and if theres any Really GOOD climbing areas then id love to know about it thanks. Cheers.

9:24:12 PM
Mt Erica Rocks, The Pyramids, and Tongue Point are all quite reasonable. Also, if you have a 4wd, there's a couple of good routes on The Sentinels, and The Gable End looks good from a distance. There's masses of nice rock in Little River Gorge if you have a drill and a taste for new routes.

I believe Glenn Tempest and Steve Griffin put up quite a few routes around Buchan in the 70's and chose to keep them secret (then probably lost the details). Various other climbers who lived in Gippsland at various times did some local climbing that they never wrote up.

None of it is Arapilesian, though I'm pretty fond of The Pyramids.

James Mc

11:02:38 PM
On 23/03/2006 JamesMc wrote:
>None of it is Arapilesian, though I'm pretty fond of The Pyramids.

Pyramids = worst access to any crag in Victoria + the thickest stinging nettles and wasp nests I have
ever seen.

6:11:33 PM
Thanks james. Ive climbed at Erica rocks and its not too bad. Ive no idea where the Pyramids are. Im hoping that if us climbers do the right thing parks will allow us back into tongue point as it appears to have some very nice climbing, With that in mind if we were allowed to through a couple more of those "naughty" bolts into the slabs at Mt Bishop id definately climb there a bit more.( Rumour has it that some 45 mt pitches have only 1 or 2 non stainless old bolts) Any thing other than Woolamai in South Gippsland?

11:19:58 PM
The Eatern Victoria guide lists almost every bit of worthwhile (and not worthwhile!) rock in the area.
12:39:43 PM
Hey Mick

It looks like I might possibly be down your was a few weeks after easter, I'll bring the Eastern region guide book with me and I second what Neil says about the book.

from Paul

There are 10 messages in this topic.


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