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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo Gorge North Side Queen Victoria Buttress & Environs [ Gorge Guide ]

Author

Queen Vic Route

Mark R

17-Dec-2011
12:17:33 PM

Anyone done QV Route in dark past or recent times? Any gems on access/gear? That is to say, should I bother lugging very big cams? And how obvious is QV gulley for access... not that we would want to water down the adventure too much! Cheers. And while Im at it... does anyone know if bolts on Eureka uprising etc were ever replaced?

jrc

18-Dec-2011
1:39:50 AM

Phil Armstrong and I climbed this beauty in Jan 77 (about the 26th) lovely weekend day trip' i remember the big offwidth crner pitch - either P3 or P4 - has something like a 6" crack in it with no choices for protection. so it was a case of whack/ place one bong in, hangeoff it; place one higher and pull the lower one out; then repeat the process for about 10m.I think this was the only piece of aid we dd not eliminate, leaving the route at 16M4 as opposed to the original 14m4 (I looked at the notes I wrote in my Mt Buffalo/Peter Watling guide to double check.). anywa if you need big gear it will be that pitch and i'd daresay that'll be whatever can bridge 6"...

Best wishes...

Cam McKenzie

19-Dec-2011
8:10:17 AM

hey Mark,
Sure that will be an adventure! I chatted to Kevin about the gear on Eureka Uprising and I believe that it hasn't been replaced (still screw in ring bolts).

Wendy

19-Dec-2011
10:11:02 AM

Does this mean you've recovered from Tragic and Moss, Mark?

Mark R

19-Dec-2011
5:41:57 PM

Yes, I guess it does... though I have no desire to aid this bad boy and I have faith that it will be clean and nothing but beautiful handcracks. Ah who am I trying to kid... Ill be wearing jeans, long sleeves, boxing gloves and taking a broom! Cant wait! That said I still think I might not even find the start. Can anyone confirm whether its the second gully left from the top or after rapping behind the pinacle?

kieranl

20-Dec-2011
11:44:51 AM

Can't remember which gully it is but I think it was pretty obvious and is on the left (facing out). It's not the rap behind the pinnacle. Top half of the gully was pretty straightforward until a little step near the base of Stumble On A Daffodil (I think)

There are 6 messages in this topic.