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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Mallorca beta
youngtuffdy
10/10/2011
7:58:03 AM
Hi,

We're heading to Mallorca for two weeks next July. We're looking to sample some DWS and clip some bolts. Just wondering if anyone has any beta to share on best area(s) or regions to look for accommodation and where to climb - obviously it's a massive island and I understand this is kinda like asking where should I climb in NSW but I'm just after a starting point!

Many thanks, Aaron
maxdacat
10/10/2011
9:50:16 AM
get the rockfax guide.

nmonteith
10/10/2011
9:53:54 AM
Hey Aaron, I have the Rockfax DWS guide which is pretty extensive and quite recent (2008 i think?). It doesn't have any roped routes in it though.
youngtuffdy
12/10/2011
10:25:03 AM
Hi Neil, That'd be great to see since I can't find a way to order the guide in Oz or get a soft copy. We're just after a good place to base ourselves on the island at this stage so we can book some accommodation before all the crazy Brit tourists book it for holiday season.
maxdacat
12/10/2011
10:31:16 AM
Probably a good idea to first search, then ask on UKC about the guides availability and accommodation. Also have you seen this site:

http://www.dwsworld.com/mallorca/
Wendy
12/10/2011
12:51:41 PM
http://coronn.com/

These guys cover Mallorca. They were something pitiful like $8 to download the entirety of their collection when I did it. Not the best guides in the world, but they got us around a lot of Europe.

nmonteith
12/10/2011
1:24:55 PM
On 12/10/2011 Wendy wrote:
>http://coronn.com/
>
>These guys cover Mallorca. They were something pitiful like $8 to download
>the entirety of their collection when I did it. Not the best guides in
>the world, but they got us around a lot of Europe.

Just don't pull their guides out in front of any locals - they will go ape shit that you have STOLEN their potential new route money! This happened to us in Verdon - we pulled out the Coronn guide and the lady in the shop started screaming at as that we should only use their local ($60) guide, and by using the coronn guide meant that Verdon locals will never have money to do any new routes and blah blah blah. She literally threw us out of the shop.
Wendy
12/10/2011
1:37:53 PM
On 12/10/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 12/10/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>http://coronn.com/
>>
>>These guys cover Mallorca. They were something pitiful like $8 to download
>>the entirety of their collection when I did it. Not the best guides
>in
>>the world, but they got us around a lot of Europe.
>
>Just don't pull their guides out in front of any locals - they will go
>ape shit that you have STOLEN their potential new route money! This happened
>to us in Verdon - we pulled out the Coronn guide and the lady in the shop
>started screaming at as that we should only use their local ($60) guide,
>and by using the coronn guide meant that Verdon locals will never have
>money to do any new routes and blah blah blah. She literally threw us out
>of the shop.

Wow, Martin should get onto that agenda ....

No one ever jumped up and down at us over them, but I'm sure there's no patent or otherwise intrinsic right to produce a guidebook to an area. If I was anywhere for any length of time, I'd probably buy the local guide though if it was any good, because the Coronn ones are decidedly ordinary guides. Good for quick trips or even just research, because they don't exactly break the bank. I'm sure this is called something in modern liberal economies, let me see, um, competition? I think it's supposed to improve standards, efficiency, lower prices and so on?
maxdacat
12/10/2011
2:29:06 PM
On 12/10/2011 nmonteith wrote:
. She literally threw us out
>of the shop.

Gotta love the French. "Ow dare you try and spend money in ma shop"

nmonteith
12/10/2011
2:48:48 PM
On 12/10/2011 Wendy wrote:
>I'd probably buy the local guide
>though if it was any good, because the Coronn ones are decidedly ordinary
>guides.

Totally agree - we went to the shop to ask them them for beta on what routes were good - as the Coronn guide lacked a star system - and at Verdon its all rap in, climb out so very hard to work out what looks good from above.
youngtuffdy
13/10/2011
5:36:15 PM
Thanks very much for the beta. I realise there's heaps online but thought that an Aussie might be able to say "you have to stay at xxx, and climb at xxx". Cheers!

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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