17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
Thinking of heading up to Black Hill for some bouldering this weekend, wondering if anyone has some tips for good problems to seek out, especially V6 and up. Not been before, so any beta would be much appreciated.
If you can find the Rock mag article its quite useful as it has a photo of Nick Sutter's problem The Beast With Two Backs V10, which is probably one of the best hard problems on the hill. Its easy to find with the photo and map!
Otherwise, head to Kyneton, take the second exit, round the roundabout and back over freeway and follow Edgecomb Rd until you get to Ennis Road, turn right and park at the end. You can see the Hill as you drive along so its pretty easy. When I boulder there, I usually follow the circuit track to the right then take the first left, a narrow track that heads up the hill.
Just as you turn left there's a neat boulder with a nice easier problem.
Keep going up the track a little and if you head right off the track and straight up the hill, there's is a heap of large boulders with hard problems, most of which have probably never been climbed! this is where I usually go, the rock is mostly good and you're away from the track so its fairly quiet.
If you keep going up the track to the top of the hill, Beast is off to your left as I recall.
There are problems all over the hill, and its a reasonably compact area. If you are looking for hard problems you should find quite a few. The rock can be really coarse and grainy and tough on the tips. I live just down the road but usually end up going up to Mt Alexander. In fact its been several years since I've bouldered there, I've got 8+ projects in mind that will all be really good. Please let us know what you get done! Beast With Two Backs should definitely be on your list if its in your range.
I'm super busy this weekend, when are you thinking you'll be there? I might squeeze in a visit.
When you're done, the best coffee in Kyneton is at Inner Biscuit. Head to Piper Street and its next door to the nursery. You'll know Piper Street, its full of tourists in Euro SUV's. The Royal George hotel has a nice bar for a post boulder ale, and the Indian restaurant in Piper St, Dhaba, is bloody good! Also, in Woodend, Holgate's Pub has great beers too.
I'll definitely seek out Beast With Two Backs. Found another thread which suggests it is a subtle arete, standing start, on a big boulder, so hopefully should be able to spot it. Mind you, a technical v10 arete sounds pretty tough!
I'll probably be there from about midday on Sun, maybe see you there if you can make it. If not, I'll report back...
Hey guys, i've just moved to sunbury, which is about 1/2 hour down the road from Black Hill. Spoken to Nick a few times about the area, got a rough map which I've now lost, had a couple of visits and seen some awesome stuff, found a project I need to bolt, and I'm trying to nurse my way through a stupid toe injury before getting back out there. Phew!
So, long story short, keep in touch about the bouldering out there. I think I found some of the problems Nick described. But I think my interest in the area has reignited Nicks granite passion lol!
Glad to see so much interest in the area. I live in Woodend and am always keen to get out. Have played on several problems in the area... including some of yours Al at Cobaw, and various bits and pieces at Black Hill and Camels. Know where to find the beast but havent tried it... looks good'n'hard. Much roped climbing to be done all up and down the calder as youre no doubt aware... old and yet to be developed.