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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Retrobolt? - Protection on Auto Da Fe (Arapiles)

jezza
27/04/2011
8:44:48 PM
I'm just kidding, of course. Actually, I was hoping to hear other people's experience with the first pitch of Auto Da Fe. I climbed it yesterday, and was a little disappointed. It wasn't consistent at all, and seemed contrived. Maybe the second pitch is where it's at? We ran out of time and didn't get on it. The Confession (next door) is a really good climb.

START beta climb='Auto Da Fe'
Climbed to the hole, and then straight up for about a metre or two on thin ground. Felt a bit silly, because there's good holds < 2m to the left and about 2m to the right. Arrived at easy ground. Kept on climbing straight up. Went thin for a while, then back to easy ground. Kept climbing straight up. I'm still directly above the hole. 'This can't be the climb, it doesn't feel like a 21'. _Downclimbed_ a few metres and traversed left a metre or so to reach another thin section (!!!!!). I'm now maybe 25m up and slightly left of the initial hole. Enjoyed that for a while. There's good holds to the right that I'm consciously avoiding!! Then back on easier ground. Then the hard bit at the end, which was really good.
FINISH beta
crazyjohn
27/04/2011
10:30:31 PM
Thats pretty much it! Nice work. The crux is at the end which is unavoidable and not contrived and fun too! The second pitch IS the money. When in doubt, you should have just went up the easiest way 2m L or R. If you start from the hole you will find that you cant escape too far off route. You cant escape easily, especially if your intention is to climb up.
patto
28/04/2011
1:29:10 PM
I loved the climb despite chickening out and not even completing the first pitch. My second who did do the whole pitch definitely enjoyed it.

There is a small ledge about 24m up with two small pockets and no other protection for about 4-5m. I hung about on that ledge for around 15mins trying to work out some other protection but it just wasn't there. I ran it out a bit longer but then bailed as I wasn't prepared to commit to some delicate moves with a big 4m run out.

The small protection earlier didn't worry me, nor did the RP protection on the crux that I observed on the rap that day. I want to go back and repeat the climb as long as I can get protection in one of those pockets. Tricams or possibly Totem cams would go nicely so I have ordered some Totem cams today.

I absolutely loved the first pitch of Wall in the Afternoon Sun. Though I felt the second bolt was probably unnecessary. This first was very welcome! :-)

jezza
28/04/2011
7:42:31 PM
Patto was that you trying it on Monday while I was on Skink?
patto
29/04/2011
12:10:15 AM
Um, me? Never, Nooo.... That must have been somebody else who wanted a rope lowered! :-O I'm sure there were hundreds of others doing Auto Da Fe on Monday!

I loved the climb. Just wasn't prepared to go on without being somewhat protected. I will definitely be going back though.

Glad to hear you nailed the first pitch. Did you get protection into those pockets? Or did you just run it out? I hope you enjoyed Skink, though you seemed to breeze well past the belay and the hanging belay.
JDB
29/04/2011
8:54:26 AM
On 28/04/2011 patto wrote:
>I loved the climb despite chickening out and not even completing the first
>pitch. My second who did do the whole pitch definitely enjoyed it.
>
>There is a small ledge about 24m up with two small pockets and no other
>protection for about 4-5m. I hung about on that ledge for around 15mins
>trying to work out some other protection but it just wasn't there. I ran
>it out a bit longer but then bailed as I wasn't prepared to commit to some
>delicate moves with a big 4m run out.
>

Patto, I think you must have missed a crucial placement.
My recollection of ADF was excellent but spaced gear, I don't reall a run out of that length.
Jezza, let go of the Retro bolt references, best to leave the lid of Pandora's box firmly in place.
>The small protection earlier didn't worry me, nor did the RP protection
>on the crux that I observed on the rap that day. I want to go back and
>repeat the climb as long as I can get protection in one of those pockets.
> Tricams or possibly Totem cams would go nicely so I have ordered some
>Totem cams today.
>
>I absolutely loved the first pitch of Wall in the Afternoon Sun. Though
>I felt the second bolt was probably unnecessary. This first was very welcome!
>:-)

jezza
29/04/2011
9:42:40 AM
Patto when you do Auto Da Fe next time, start 2m to the right of where you were. There's a hole where you start, although the guide says you can traverse in from the left to gain the hole and avoid the 'absurd' (Louise Shepherd) initial move. It's really pretty contrived though. Basically, you're consciously avoiding the good holds. The Confession (which is what I reckon you were on, until you approached the rings) is possibly a better pitch!

I linked the final two pitches of Skink. I needed to go to the toilet pretty badly.
JDB
29/04/2011
12:31:55 PM
On 29/04/2011 jezza wrote:
>Patto when you do Auto Da Fe next time, start 2m to the right of where
>you were. There's a hole where you start, although the guide says you
>can traverse in from the left to gain the hole and avoid the 'absurd' (Louise
>Shepherd) initial move. It's really pretty contrived though. Basically,
>you're consciously avoiding the good holds. The Confession (which is what
>I reckon you were on, until you approached the rings) is possibly a better
>pitch!
>
>I linked the final two pitches of Skink. I needed to go to the toilet
>pretty badly.


Jezza, I wouldn't describe the traverse on Skink as...trouser filling

jezza
29/04/2011
1:35:49 PM
>Jezza, I wouldn't describe the traverse on Skink as...trouser filling
I felt the urge in the cozy cave, but decided it'd be best to keep it cozy.

tee pee
29/04/2011
3:06:34 PM
What's this just kidding, put bolts in, if you don't won't to clip don't, i,ve never seen a big issue, 100 people a year would seem max for most routes and we are the only people to see these bolts, the argument that they deface cliffs is moronic, i've climbed numerous pitches were the route description say there are bolts only to find some dick has ripped them out for there own reasons (have no brains) 60 m on a pitch no one else can see these so-called defacing bolts if you won't to solo, solo, accidents happen all the time, its your choice not to clip, as soon as i learn how to bolt i will(a much as possible) just don't clip so easy(death wishers i climb trad 20 or so times a year but also relize holds break accidents happen) i can't belive people ripped out bolts for there own glory(only in there mind, no one really cares what us climbers do except us, if your comfortable on pushing fear rather than climbing go for, it but im a climber not an adrenillen junky i'll clip if i can and leave the rest for you comfortable enough to do your own thing.why cant the other be the same?
Mark R
29/04/2011
3:12:14 PM
Oh dear...
JDB
29/04/2011
3:14:25 PM
On 29/04/2011 jezza wrote:
>>Jezza, I wouldn't describe the traverse on Skink as...trouser filling
>I felt the urge in the cozy cave, but decided it'd be best to keep it
>cozy.

Jezza, the Peregrine falcons(or whatever birdy is responsible for all that guano) have not compunction about un-loading in that cave

Eduardo Slabofvic
29/04/2011
3:17:48 PM
Hear hear to that.

And while your at it, chip some holds so old gerries like me can do Punks, just don't pull on the chipped holds if you want to tick the 32.

and put in a via ferrata cable so I can pull on it when ever I feel like...

.... and a cable car, and a McDonalds, and a heliport. Just don't use them if you don't like them.

... and a roller disco

... and a waterslide theme park

... and some 7 star hotels

... and a live fire range
robertsonja
29/04/2011
3:59:38 PM
On 29/04/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:

>... and a live fire range

actually, that might just work
satan
29/04/2011
4:12:33 PM
The watchtower used to be one, so there's a historical precedent.


Eduardo Slabofvic
29/04/2011
4:22:36 PM
I'm talking heavy ordinance

rodw
29/04/2011
4:49:51 PM
You missed...add a pub..or is that just a given?
Mark R
29/04/2011
4:50:42 PM
Nice

Miguel75
29/04/2011
6:24:20 PM
I'm all for a heliport, roller disco and shooting range. Not too keen on the hotel or Maccas.

What about a toilet in the cozy cave?

stugang
29/04/2011
8:33:24 PM
On 29/04/2011 tee pee wrote:
>What's this just kidding, put bolts in, if you don't won't to clip don't,
>i,ve never seen a big issue, 100 people a year would seem max for most
>routes and we are the only people to see these bolts, the argument that
>they deface cliffs is moronic, i've climbed numerous pitches were the route
>description say there are bolts only to find some dick has ripped them
>out for there own reasons (have no brains) 60 m on a pitch no one else
>can see these so-called defacing bolts if you won't to solo, solo, accidents
>happen all the time, its your choice not to clip, as soon as i learn how
>to bolt i will(a much as possible) just don't clip so easy(death wishers
>i climb trad 20 or so times a year but also relize holds break accidents
>happen) i can't belive people ripped out bolts for there own glory(only
>in there mind, no one really cares what us climbers do except us, if your
>comfortable on pushing fear rather than climbing go for, it but im a climber
>not an adrenillen junky i'll clip if i can and leave the rest for you comfortable
>enough to do your own thing.why cant the other be the same?

Word.

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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