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Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User

First trad lead recommendations at Araps? 13-Apr-2011 At 9:01:42 AM grangrump

Message

On 13/04/2011 simey wrote:
>On 12/04/2011 climbingjac wrote:
>>Why not pop your new leader on two ropes: a lead rope and also a toprope.
>> That way they are learning the placements without sketching and risking a ground fall if they got it wrong.
>It's a technique worth using if you don't have good beginner easy routes
>to introduce people to leading, but otherwise it seems a bit 'pretend'.

Depends if person is learning to place gear or learning to lead, which are distinct and preferably sequential. For the first phase (placing gear) a top rope is good, BUT learner should be aiding (finding, then standing on a placement every meter or so). It is a little frightening to see what pops under bodyweight (and surprising what may hold).
This reduces the pump factor when later (actual leading) trying to work out what size wire / cam etc to put in.