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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	The Watchtower Faces	(General)	The Watchtower	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Topic Date User

watch tower crack? 28-Mar-2011 At 2:15:36 PM cruze

Message

On 28/03/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>I recall Brolga was a bit run-out but easy on the first pitch. The second
>pitch is harder, but I thought pro was adequate. It's been a while, I'll
>have to go and repeat it one day soon. The slightly freaky bit is the
>belay at the end of p1, where it seems cams are almost essential to get
>something secure into the slightly flared crack behind your bum.
>
>I think what freaks people out is the water-polished stone there. If
>you're not used to frictioning, it will feel insecure.
>
>The Confession was a whole different issue. That's one of the two times
>I can recall being seriously intimidated at Araps. Given the grade, easy
>access and lack of warnings, why no-one has yet seriously injured themselves
>on it is a surprise to me.
>
Interesting. I found that The Confession was fine although there was a comitting move up high which could be nasty if you aren't climbing within yourself. I took my time with it and eeked out pro at every available opportunity.

I have always found the reachy move below the belay on Brolga P1 to be the crux, the belay at the top of P1 to be verging on inadequate by modern standards and the moves off that belay to be committing on small/no gear above a ledge and a less than desirable belay.

I used a large cam to protect the moves to the peg belay on WC and climbed up to the bolt for my second before setting up the belay.