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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All WA (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Climbing around Margaret river W.A.
latch
15/03/2011
5:36:02 PM
Wondering if there is any deceit climbing around Margaret river. I am heading over there for work in a few weeks and wondering if there is anything there on the climbing front?
bones
15/03/2011
5:49:29 PM
Yep there is
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=15&MessageID=14062&Replies=8

comablur
15/03/2011
7:24:03 PM
Most definitely. Willyabrup, just down the road, has a good number of climbs with a broad range of grades, plus bloody fantastic sunsets. Plus there is a good brewery on the way home. Grab a copy of “West Australian Rock” it has all the other locations as well.

nmonteith
15/03/2011
7:25:31 PM
Any tips for free camping around Margaret River climbing areas at easter?

shortman
15/03/2011
7:32:05 PM
Just bivvy on the beach.

comablur
15/03/2011
8:05:50 PM
We stayed in a hostel in Margaret River, but it might be possible to camp at the car park (might not leave your tent up during the day). You would need to take water and as it’s not a camp site a fuel stove only. The car park is well off the main drag and farm land on one side. We had a hire car so the road is quite good all the way in. By the way Willyabrup is the only place where I have seen a Gov agency (CALM) take a levy from commercial groups so that they can install and test anchors at the top the cliff for commercial purposes only, these anchors are tested every year and tagged once tested.

cruze
15/03/2011
9:18:35 PM
The commercial anchors at Willy are ridiculous. Think 520 bolts in a 3 m2 area. Tags and metal crap everywhere near fantastic gear options. Yay.

We stayed at Gracetown caravan park which I would completely recommend. Relatively cheap with fantastic cooking and bathroom facilities.

I would strongly recommend that you don't bivvy on the beach - at least near Bobs Hollow. CALM apparently checks beaches (esp Bobs) and fines people. Try not to be a visitor that stuffs it up for the locals.
latch
16/03/2011
9:28:12 AM
So the next question:

Anyone around Margaret River between the 3rd to the 11th of April and keen for a climb?

Has anyone done much bouldering over there? might take the mat as well.
boulderingbadger
16/03/2011
11:13:41 AM
Willy's is fantastic, take a trad rack with you, plenty of cams. You'll be able to escape the afternoon sun there. It's all face climbing. You can top rope a lot of the stuff.

Bob's is OK, it is scummy & sandy but there are a few nice lines. While I was there a gentleman was bitten by a tiger snake while on a climb, so beware...

Whaleback boulders. Head there in the mid/late afternoon for a boulder and a stunning sunset... If you are in to bouldering this is a must do.

http://www.climberswa.asn.au/wp-content/uploads/2009/09/whaleback-mini-guide.pdf


Also, it is very very windy there, take some warm layers for the late afternoon. Enjoy
latch
16/03/2011
4:27:49 PM
Cheers for that looks great.

Will definitely head down to whaleback boulders for a post work boulder. I will take my shunt and set up a few top ropes as well if I don't manage to get a belay over there.
f_ladou
16/03/2011
4:54:34 PM
Hi Latch,

You can also check this two trip reports:Bob's Hollow

François






Neil
17/03/2011
12:08:58 AM
please no free camping near any of the crags.
this will only stuff things up with the management authority (DEC).
DEC will likely be around early in the mornings over easter as they know the games.

the management plan has recently been revised and looks like being better for climbers - so DEC are doing better down south than around perth.

try contos campground which is walking distance from bobs. although it could be busy-ish at easter. to walk to bobs follow the cape to cape north until you are at the top of the cliffs and then descend on the north side. if you reach the 4wd carpark you have gone too far (but only by 1min). this is the nicest way in. much better than walking along the 4wd track or along the beach.

it was a python not a tiger snake that did the biting.... they have been seen on that climb for years.

nmonteith
17/03/2011
8:35:04 AM
Thanks for the tip Neil.
latch
18/03/2011
9:19:00 AM
Hi François

Thanks, looks like you guys had fun. Have to make a trip to the cave for sure!

Cheers

Lachie

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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