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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Birdwood Gully
Just Climb
4-Dec-2005
3:45:40 PM
Does anyone know the grades down at Birdwood Gully?

il pirata
13-Dec-2005
10:28:12 AM
from L to R 21,22,13?,26,24,24 direct start to the route with the gym hold,22 this starts to the right and
still goes through the roof, a/some random bolt/s, then the surf board route 23, this has 2 finish's either
keep heading left or finish just at the lip,
have fun! pretty good bouldering as well some good eliminate's and some pure lines
for more good springwood bouldering check out madoline glen track at the end of Bednal ave about 1oom
off the road there is a small cliffline pretty good.
drdeviousII
13-Dec-2005
11:21:38 AM
On 13/12/2005 il pirata wrote:
>24 direct start to the route with the gym hold.

The future draws nearer....

HM33
13-Dec-2005
11:39:53 AM
these routes are not new though
drdeviousII
13-Dec-2005
11:41:29 AM
History repeating?
Lee
14-Dec-2005
8:38:31 AM
certainly not new routes. Definetly a good litte after school/work crag for springwood locals, were for me
anyway. They were put up around 93/94
PS locals only, go back to the valley man
climbingmonkey
29-Mar-2006
11:48:12 AM
do you know what the grade of the two finishes is on surfboarder?

Breezy
21-Aug-2006
10:35:14 AM
Hi

Has anyone climbed these routes inthe last 12 - 18 months. I have been down tollok at the bolts and they seem ok from the ground from what you can see. Just wondering if anyone has fallen / lowered off the carrots recently ?

Thanks
TonyB
29-Dec-2008
8:03:16 PM
Hey Breezy,
What's the easiest access ? Can you get down between the houses on Perry Av, or is it best to walk around from the South end of Bednal Rd; or down Madoline Pl from Boland Av?
Thanks.

evanbb
10-Jan-2009
7:29:04 AM
I think it was about 12 months before this post. Anyway, I climbed there with a mate and thought the carrots looked good, but the rock was dodgy. I climbed the far left route and seem to remember a crack through the rock that passed through the bolt hole. Not good. I didn't fall on that one. The rock there is quite soft and probably much worse when wet, so I'd be careful about how hard you fall there.
Wollemi
15-Oct-2009
12:46:43 PM
'thought the carrots looked good, but the rock was dodgy'

We talking about holds breaking off - if the rock is dodgy, wouldn't it also be so internally,
and bolts would pull? I ask because I want to do an aid traverse of the crag via a bolt-
ladder through the roof. The bolts are close enough together, on the much longer South to
North direction, rather than the original spirit of the lines - all straight up into the roof on a
East- West aspect. I don't think I would deck if 1 or 2 bolts pulled, but certainly; yes if 3
pulled.

nmonteith
15-Oct-2009
12:50:16 PM
IMHO 80% of the Blue Mtns is very bad rock quality! There is a lovely shell of good rock a few mm deep
on the surface, then muddy sandy nonsense underneath.

rodw
15-Oct-2009
1:00:18 PM
You would have to be very unlucky for 3 bolts to pull at once.

evanbb
15-Oct-2009
1:00:29 PM
On 15/10/2009 Wollemi wrote:
>We talking about holds breaking off - if the rock is dodgy, wouldn't it
>also be so internally,
>and bolts would pull?

I doubt they'll pull if you aid off them. I was mostly concerned about the rock for this reason:
"seem to remember a crack through the rock that passed through the bolt hole."

I thought that bit would be dodgy in a fall. I reckon, in general, if the wall is vertical (ie, not carrots in a horizontal roof) and you're aiding, it would have to be very, very soft rock for problems.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15-Oct-2009
1:02:31 PM
... or badly installed bolts.
Wollemi
15-Oct-2009
1:14:34 PM
Off topic to the thread;
Neil - is your statement true of Narrabeen Sandstone (upper mts) and Hawkesbury
Sandstone (lowr mts)? I do not think you have drilled East of Bodington Hill incline.

nmonteith
15-Oct-2009
1:47:29 PM
On 15/10/2009 Wollemi wrote:
>Off topic to the thread;
>Neil - is your statement true of Narrabeen Sandstone (upper mts) and Hawkesbury
>Sandstone (lowr mts)? I do not think you have drilled East of Bodington
>Hill incline.

My statement was merely a wild generalization...

No, I don't believe i've drilled in the lower blue mountains, but i have drilled in the hawkesbury river area
near wisemans ferry. That rock was much more solid than the usual Bluies nonsense.
ozone
29-Oct-2009
9:46:35 PM
I haven't had any trouble with the bolts there. Except that there's only one at the lower off for the bolt on gym hold route and the same one for the long roof route (sandy and gross: but local). What can you do when you need to get busy hey. Always been a spesh spot for me. First place I had a ground fall, if it wasn't for the turpentine under the lower off I don't think I'd be walking now. Shit for brains. That's what you get when you wag school.

There are 18 messages in this topic.

 

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