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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Hip Shake Jerk **25 Centennial Glen
canbedone
22/02/2011
4:49:45 PM
After trying this climb last weekend and finding the sart very hard! Can anyone tell me if the dino at the start is apart of the grade/climb?

It's a Bloody long dino and for 25 it really seems OTT.
Olbert
22/02/2011
4:59:34 PM
Thats why its 25M0 in the guide...though it also says its 25 in its free version. The move didnt feel very pleasant so when I pulled on the first bolt which made the whole climb a bit nicer.
Wendy
22/02/2011
5:40:48 PM
A brontosaurus is a bloody long dino.

Hawkman
22/02/2011
7:35:48 PM
Used to be graded 26 for the dyne start

IdratherbeclimbingM9
22/02/2011
8:46:09 PM
On 22/02/2011 Olbert wrote:
>Thats why its 25M0 in the guide...

In the Ewbank Grading System the lowest M grade is M1.
There is no such thing as M0.
Pulling on gear is M1.
... ~> but maybe looking at the route and thinking about it is M0 ... ?
Heh, heh, heh.


pmonks
23/02/2011
3:03:12 AM
On 22/02/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>In the Ewbank Grading System the lowest M grade is M1.
>There is no such thing as M0.
>Pulling on gear is M1.

I thought M0 indicated a rest on gear, without using that gear to pull past any moves? e.g. the first ascent of Janicepts was graded at 21M0, as Mr Ewbank rested (twice, I believe?) on gear.
TonyB
23/02/2011
7:42:50 AM
On 22/02/2011 canbedone wrote:
>It's a Bloody long dino and for 25 it really seems OTT.

How long is a bloody dino ? That is, before the bloody attack by the Velociraptor.

ajfclark
23/02/2011
7:45:20 AM
The section quoting Ewbank at the bottom of the guides page says M1 is two or more consecutive aid moves on good bolts, that single aids should just be mentioned in the description and that M1 is the easiest mechanical grade:
If a climb uses only one pitch (sic – should read piton. Ed.) for physical aid, the climb is graded free and the piton mentioned. If a climb uses two or any number of pitons for physical aid, but they are separated by free moves then the climb is still regarded as free with aid. For example: Pitch 3. 60’. (crux). Straight up the groove, ‘4 pitons for aid’. However if two aids are used in succession with no free climbing in between., then that particular section is regarded as mechanical. A climb, may therefore be free, aided, and mechanica1, though only the two grades are used - i.e. 18 and M.5. while the aided portion of the climb is described verbally in the description.

The easiest mechanical grade (M.1.) therefore applies to such things as two firm bolts, close together, in any easy position on good rock.
Though it may not be what Ewbank intended for things like resting on the rope I think the grading M0 in addition to mentioning it in the description makes sense as it lets you see things that aren't completely free at a glance.
mikllaw
23/02/2011
9:04:34 AM
A nice 25 originally
It had an aid point at the start so it was graded m0

(get used to it, much of what Ewbank said was utter tosh. Just because he came up with the basis for a better grading system and was a good climber doesn't mean he was god or got everything right) (another problem with the m0 grade is that it doesn't tell whether it was an aid or a rest)

I made the mistake of freeing it at 25S (sharp) so it's rarely done.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/02/2011
9:17:45 PM
On 23/02/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>
If a climb uses only one pitch (sic – should read piton.
>Ed.) for physical aid, the climb is graded free and the piton mentioned.
>If a climb uses two or any number of pitons for physical aid, but they
>are separated by free moves then the climb is still regarded as free with
>aid. For example: Pitch 3. 60’. (crux). Straight up the groove, ‘4 pitons
>for aid’. However if two aids are used in succession with no free climbing
>in between., then that particular section is regarded as mechanical. A
>climb, may therefore be free, aided, and mechanica1, though only the two
>grades are used - i.e. 18 and M.5. while the aided portion of the climb
>is described verbally in the description.
>
>The easiest mechanical grade (M.1.) therefore applies to such things as
>two firm bolts, close together, in any easy position on good rock.


~> Thanks for quoting the original source ajf.

>Though it may not be what Ewbank intended for things like resting on the rope
>I think the grading M0 in addition to mentioning it in the description
>makes sense as it lets you see things that aren't completely free at a glance.

This makes sense to me.
I suppose historical usage will add it to the grade repertoire in time.









mikl wrote;
>(get used to it, much of what Ewbank said was utter tosh. Just because he came up with the basis for a better grading system and was a good climber doesn't mean he was god or got everything right) (another problem with the m0 grade is that it doesn't tell whether it was an aid or a rest)

~> I can see in the future someone writing...

(get used to it, much of what Ewbank mikl said was utter tosh. Just because he came up with the basis for a better grading bolting system and was a good climber doesn't mean he was god or got everything right) (another a historic problem with the m0 grade is that it doesn't didn't tell whether it was an aid or a rest, but common concensus has sorted that now!)

Thereyagomikl. Fixeditforya!
Heh, heh, heh.
onsight
23/02/2011
10:44:18 PM
On 23/02/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>This makes sense to me.
>I suppose historical usage will add it to the grade repertoire in time.

You might be right. I remember M0 being commonly used in the ACT at least 25 years ago, so maybe in time it will catch on. ;-p

But maybe this means the whole aid grading system is being downgraded and in fact we should just call you M8.
:-o

sliamese
24/02/2011
8:39:55 AM
Maybe its time we dropped the whole M shenanigans and came in line with the rest of the world! ;)

How am i going to grade the winter mixed routes in tassie?!? :)


(with the fresh can of worms opened, he sits back to watch things unfold...)

pmonks
24/02/2011
9:19:02 AM
On 24/02/2011 sliamese wrote:
>How am i going to grade the winter mixed routes in tassie?!? :)

5.17c++gf21WI7extremehangoverAWESOME
maxdacat
24/02/2011
10:46:30 AM
There is winter mixed in Tassie? Tell me more.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24/02/2011
9:18:27 PM
On 23/02/2011 onsight wrote:
>On 23/02/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>I suppose historical usage will add it to the grade repertoire in time.
>
>You might be right. I remember M0 being commonly used in the ACT at least
>25 years ago, so maybe in time it will catch on. ;-p
>
Ahh bugger. There is someone who remembers*!
~> I was deliberately ignoring the (likely ODH or his mates?), aberration!
(*It is not the only place either...)

>But maybe this means the whole aid grading system is being downgraded
>and in fact we should just call you M8.
>:-o

Heh, heh, heh.
;-)
drdeviousii
24/02/2011
10:38:43 PM
On 24/02/2011 maxdacat wrote:
>There is winter mixed in Tassie? Tell me more.

scratchy dry tooling is not winter climbing

sliamese
25/02/2011
8:39:48 AM
Hehehe what would i know hey...

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/download/attachments/371/knuckle1.jpg?version=1&modificationDate=1103235677000

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Ben+Lomond+Ice

It is just scratchy rock, but the craziest rock ever. Its soft, cold amd even takes screws! Must be calcite or something. It even falls down when it gets warm!!! ;)

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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