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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 57
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Bouldering Parkes NSW?

purdo
4/02/2011
6:53:09 PM
I have to travel to Parkes a few times this year and was wondering if anyone knows of any bouldering areas in the area. Maybe any climbers there that would like to show me. Yes I know it is a bit of a stab in the dark but who knows?
LGJ
6/02/2011
9:19:22 AM
There's quite a lot of bouldering around Cowra, only an hour or so from Parkes. I was working in Parkes last year - only heard about Cowra towards the end of my stay and thus only got there once. Start up the hill around the botanical gardens, and go for a stroll.

There's some cliffs in Nangar NP, and another further north which I can't remember the name of. They're about a half hour from Parkes, then add up to an hour walking time. I was checking out Nangar for climbing prospects a couple of years ago; there are cliffs, but only one section was really solid, and it would need bolts.

Heath lives in Dubbo, he has put up a couple of natural lines in the other NP, the name of which elludes me. I'll PM you his details.


Liam

Paulie
6/02/2011
10:17:48 AM
On 6/02/2011 LGJ wrote:
>There's quite a lot of bouldering around Cowra, only an hour or so from
>Parkes. I was working in Parkes last year - only heard about Cowra towards
>the end of my stay and thus only got there once. Start up the hill around
>the botanical gardens, and go for a stroll.

Any further info mate, routes, grades, any loal climbers you know of? I travel to Blayney quite a bit (wife is from there) and Cowra is just down the road.

nmonteith
6/02/2011
11:44:26 AM
Cowra looks rad from some of the photos I've seen. Conglomerate bouldering.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/02/2011
5:45:35 PM
On 6/02/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Cowra looks rad from some of the photos I've seen. Conglomerate bouldering.

?

It is granite, and reasonably good quality at that, but the bouldering is better out Wyangala Dam direction in my opinion.


On 6/02/2011 Paulie wrote:
>Any further info mate, routes, grades, any loal climbers you know of?
> I travel to Blayney quite a bit (wife is from there) and Cowra is just
>down the road.

You ought to try Pine Rocks (it is Trachyte), near Cadia/Orange and is better climbing at closer distance.


On 6/02/2011 LGJ wrote:
>There's some cliffs in Nangar NP, (snip) I was checking out Nangar for climbing prospects
>a couple of years ago; there are cliffs, but only one section was really solid, and it would need bolts.

Bullshit.

I note from your profile that you have only ticked gym and toprope, so with due respect I offer the following advice...
It is an excellent adventure climbing arena that has a lot of potential, albeit on quite sharp rock in places, but nothing that judicious rigging (read long slings), won't overcome.
~> So, I will personally make the effort to travel back to Nangar to chop any uneccessary bolts I hear of being installed there, as it has a history of climbing dating back to the early 80's at least, (even Mikl has climbed there!), with nary a bolt ever being placed*.

(*I personally have done a dozen or so routes there, and am aware of at least that number done by others on various cliffs there. You won't find them on the internet, or in guidebooks, but that is the beauty of the place...).


nmonteith
6/02/2011
6:08:19 PM
Sorry - got it confused with another town nearby which will remain nameless.

Hawkman
6/02/2011
6:40:20 PM
Cowra has Granite boulders and heaps of them. This little cluster is just near the skate park with plenty of routes done on them but i dont know the exact details of them.



Some detailed notes on the pic HERE

rodw
6/02/2011
6:52:34 PM
>~> So, I will personally make the effort to travel back to Nangar to chop
>any uneccessary bolts I hear of being installed there, as it has a history of climbing
>dating back to the early 80's at least, (even Mikl has climbed there!),
>with nary a bolt ever being placed.
>☺

Climbing at nangar came up on crag x a few years back and no-one offered any info re the climbing there...what ya got guide wise M9?

Hawkman
6/02/2011
7:00:47 PM
>Bullshit.
>
>I note from your profile that you have only ticked gym and toprope, so
>with due respect I offer the following advice...

I wouldn't use what people tick on their profile as very meaningful information. I know for a fact that Liam has done plenty of adventurous climbing around Australia and the world.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/02/2011
7:09:56 PM
On 6/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>Climbing at nangar came up on crag x a few years back and no-one offered
>any info re the climbing there...what ya got guide wise M9?

A few personal notes on scraps of paper.

I personally asked Mikl who had a broken wrist/arm at the time(?) and was working at Mtn Designs in Canberra, what routes he had done there (not that I'd expect him to remember me!!), and he was suitably vague about it, saying in effect 'go for your life, and consider anything you do as a first ascent!'.

I followed up with the Forbes Senior Scouts in the early 90's, who had done routes there in the 80's, but likewise they were not documented in any official way, even though I found their painted initials on some clearly 'do-able' natural lines.

The main line I did, was the arete just left of the natural gully splitting the headwall at the apex of the horseshoe rim of cliffs at its highest point (you will need a couple of rurps!!), along with a line not too far further left (facing the cliff), of that.
Most of the other stuff I did was with beginners on the easier angled western ramparts, though in my opinion the greater potential is on the steeper eastern ramparts.

There is another thread on Chocky about climbing there.

It is an adventure area and should remain that way. Since the lack of documentation precedent had already been set, that is why I chose not to publish those climbs, to preserve the adventure for others.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/02/2011
7:14:58 PM
On 6/02/2011 Hawkman wrote:
>I wouldn't use what people tick on their profile as very meaningful information.
>I know for a fact that Liam has done plenty of adventurous climbing around
>Australia and the world.

Whatever. Chocky is full of similar contradictions... So, going on internet-face-value, if you haven't gathered already, I am not attacking the individual but instead am reasonably passionate about not placing uneccessary bolts there, and that is the (potential) issue I was responding to.
Timbob
6/02/2011
10:05:52 PM
Only slightly OT Pine Rocks has popped up on a few threads here and there, but my googling skills have failed to unearth any useful info. can anyone point me in the right direction? or any other climbing or bouldering near orange for that matter? tried bouldering at mt canobolas ("the little breadknife") but found it pretty disappointing, funnily enough razor sharp...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/02/2011
10:18:37 PM
It has been a while since I was there, but basically head toward Cadia minesite and at the top of the plateau before heading straight on to Cadia, hang a left at a road intersection, and go downhill into the State Forest area.
There will be a track on the left saying Pine Rocks. Ignore it!!!!
Instead take the next track on the left past the signposted one, and it will lead you up towards the climbing area.

Also, on the righthand hillside, across the creek below the main access road, is another largish bit of rock. This too, has been climbed on, but it is not as extensive, or as good...

The other thread I linked to earlier has more info?, ... or at least a possible climbing contact in Orange to go there with!

Post edit.
I just looked on Google...
-33.422451, 148.998678
~> It is about 2 km due north of the Cadia Minesite.
Timbob
6/02/2011
10:40:52 PM
awesome cheers M9. will check it out. it'd be nice to have some climbing closer than Tarana or the blueys for half days and stuff.

rodw
7/02/2011
8:16:07 AM
Was this one of the walls you climbed on M9

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ljackson/124909527/
widewetandslippery
7/02/2011
9:24:21 AM
On 7/02/2011 davidn wrote:
>While on the one hand I can understand the unselfish, adventure-promoting
>intent of not recording climbs, on the other I think it just ends up in
>this kind of issue - someone comes along, thinks 'oh, that looks a bit
>stiff', asks around and can't find any evidence of a first ascent, and
>bolts it.

This could be a good case for socially accepted no bolt crags.
>
>As an aside, Aussies seem to be fairly crap at recording boulder problems
>- anything under V6 seems to be considered not worth the trouble! (by that
>reasoning, no routes under 25-27 should be recorded...)

Maybe that could be a good thing.
widewetandslippery
7/02/2011
9:27:56 AM
On 7/02/2011 rodw wrote:
>Was this one of the walls you climbed on M9
>
>http://www.flickr.com/photos/ljackson/124909527/
>

That photo that pops up I must say is begging for a boltng.

Paulie
7/02/2011
8:51:25 PM
On 6/02/2011 Hawkman wrote:
>Cowra has Granite boulders and heaps of them. This little cluster is just
>near the skate park with plenty of routes done on them but i dont know
>the exact details of them.

Thanks heaps for that photo mate, will deffo check it out in 2 weeks time! If there is anymore info as to grades and lines (well, obviously not the obvious ones!) that'd be much appreciated.

Where is this: http://www.flickr.com/photos/hawk_man/2496053283/

Paulie
7/02/2011
8:54:37 PM
On 6/02/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>You ought to try Pine Rocks (it is Trachyte), near Cadia/Orange and is
>better climbing at closer distance.

Can you mark it on a google map please mate? Cadia is indeed very close to Blayney.

Hawkman
7/02/2011
9:09:25 PM
Paulie. That's the rave cave at wingello. One day heros favorite crag.

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 57
There are 57 messages in this topic.

 

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