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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
International	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Single Pitch Granite near Bishop, California 1-Sep-2010 At 2:47:18 PM singersmith

Message

Hey Neil,

T-meadows usually closes in the last half of October, but sometimes closes briefly and then reopens. Park Service hates plowing roads and will supposedly only sharpen the blades once a week. However, if it's still open then the Regular Route on Fairview is a don't miss. My suggestion for Yosemite trade routes is to start at 3 or 4 o'clock after everyone is done epicing or high on the route. Even if you have to climb/walk down in the dark it's better than fighting crowds if that's the alternative.

Skip the single pitch granite and just go to the Buttermilks. Although a crag called Little Egypt is near there too, Espresso Crack a classic and kind of lite for the grade.

Get on the Coffin Roof in Little Cottonwood! The Coffin is a classic 5.9 crack, nice slab/faces to either side and the roof is four of the coolest finger-crack moves ever, feet swinging wildly out from the wall into an overhead heel hook.

Look up Painter Springs, House Range; there's very cool single pitch granite there and almost zero information. I can send you pictures if you want. (39º 11.114N 113º 26.338'W. Also near here is Marjum canyon and there is some single pitch climbing (limestone) in a funky desert setting, trilobites too! (39º 14.600N 113º 24.127W)

Baker Hot Springs: I understand that these have been very dirty in the past, but that's the case with all hot springs- they tend to go through cycles. I thought they were fine. Three pools, all different temps with separate hot and cold variable inflows. I've only been here in the winter, mid-week a couple of times and once on the weekend, and have never seen anyone else. I don't think anyone even drove by. The weekends definitely have hillbilly potential from Delta however. If you're doing a hot spring trip it a good idea to bring your own brush give them a good scrub and then bail/drain as much as you can, then let the rest settle while you cook dinner or something.

There's some nice hot springs in Nevada but they are mostly long drives down graded dirt roads, mostly 2WD accessible in good weather, but still 60-100 k's one-way off the highway.

That's a perfect time of the year to go check out slot canyons and indian ruins. Escalante, Grand Gulch, Coyote Gulch, or any number of slot canyons.

City Of Rocks?