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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
International (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Term 'Obligatory'

Pat B
26/08/2010
10:53:17 AM
In European climbing they often say, for example, 8a (obligatory 7b). Does anyone know exactly what that means? My partner and I are going climbing in Turkey next month and some of the climbs I've been looking at say this sort of thing

nmonteith
26/08/2010
11:02:27 AM
It's very simple. It means you must be able to do a move of that grade ABOVE a bolt (or trad). So you can't dog through via the pull on a quickdraw method. It's a very useful piece of info for multi-pitch routes! I'd love to see it adopted in Oz guides...

Pat B
26/08/2010
11:35:10 AM
Ta Neil, that's what I thought, but I thought I better check
psd
26/08/2010
11:36:05 AM
I think in your example it means that the free climb is 8a but if you are happy to pull on a draw or two at the crux its 7b. So the 'obligatory' grade is the grade you have to be about to climb just to get through it - the other grade is the grade you have to climb to free the thing.

post edit - oops beat me to it. should refresh my screen more often

nmonteith
26/08/2010
11:45:11 AM
A lot of the Bluies multipitch routes would be good contenders for this system - as they usually have poxy bouldery sections right off the belay - then much nicer easier climbing for the rest of the pitch.

Eduardo Slabofvic
26/08/2010
11:56:24 AM
Its like giving a route an onsite grade and a hangdog grade
psd
26/08/2010
12:02:20 PM
On 26/08/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>A lot of the Bluies multipitch routes would be good contenders for this
>system

Would would you give Hotel California?
mikllaw
26/08/2010
12:07:05 PM
Hanging/pulling on a few bolts probably drops it pumpy 20, mostly on the upper pitches where it really is obl

MrsM10iswhereitsat.
27/08/2010
7:11:50 PM
On 26/08/2010 Mr mikllaw wrote:
>Hanging/pulling on a few bolts probably drops it pumpy 20, mostly on the
>upper pitches where it really is obl

Unless you are standing in ettriers (or equivalent), my dear fellow, though after the Bunny Bucket incident I am not sure that this is a good approach to aid climbing on bolted blueies routes anymore.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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