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26-Aug-2010 10:53:17 AM
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In European climbing they often say, for example, 8a (obligatory 7b). Does anyone know exactly what that means? My partner and I are going climbing in Turkey next month and some of the climbs I've been looking at say this sort of thing
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26-Aug-2010 11:02:27 AM
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It's very simple. It means you must be able to do a move of that grade ABOVE a bolt (or trad). So you can't dog through via the pull on a quickdraw method. It's a very useful piece of info for multi-pitch routes! I'd love to see it adopted in Oz guides...
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26-Aug-2010 11:35:10 AM
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Ta Neil, that's what I thought, but I thought I better check
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26-Aug-2010 11:36:05 AM
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I think in your example it means that the free climb is 8a but if you are happy to pull on a draw or two at the crux its 7b. So the 'obligatory' grade is the grade you have to be about to climb just to get through it - the other grade is the grade you have to climb to free the thing.
post edit - oops beat me to it. should refresh my screen more often
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26-Aug-2010 11:45:11 AM
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A lot of the Bluies multipitch routes would be good contenders for this system - as they usually have poxy bouldery sections right off the belay - then much nicer easier climbing for the rest of the pitch.
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26-Aug-2010 11:56:24 AM
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Its like giving a route an onsite grade and a hangdog grade
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26-Aug-2010 12:02:20 PM
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On 26/08/2010 nmonteith wrote:
>A lot of the Bluies multipitch routes would be good contenders for this
>system
Would would you give Hotel California?
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26-Aug-2010 12:07:05 PM
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Hanging/pulling on a few bolts probably drops it pumpy 20, mostly on the upper pitches where it really is obl
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27-Aug-2010 7:11:50 PM
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On 26/08/2010 Mr mikllaw wrote:
>Hanging/pulling on a few bolts probably drops it pumpy 20, mostly on the
>upper pitches where it really is obl
Unless you are standing in ettriers (or equivalent), my dear fellow, though after the Bunny Bucket incident I am not sure that this is a good approach to aid climbing on bolted blueies routes anymore.
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