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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Topic Date User
Steepy steep steep ... 12-May-2010 At 11:30:36 AM singersmith
Message
At least the Americans had the good sense to use their guns to throw off the yoke of the British and kick them out. Anyone have the patience to dig up some alcoholism statistics?

Wendy, these guys pretty much covered it. The quality of the sport crags out West is depends on how much you like sport climbing.

Jailhouse is fun if you are solid on that kind of 5.12, otherwise you're going to get slapped on the warm up. Proximity to the Valley makes it worthwhile, however, if your partner is needing a steep fix or it's raining.

Owens is fun, but not in the heat.

Maple is cool and sleepy.

Zion is neat, but more of a wall destination. The cragging is kind of limited.

Smith is kind of cool and utopian, but probably not worth the drive up there for your trip.

St. George/Virgin river has seen a lot of development in recent years and is probably a cool mission for 5.12 and up.

The bolts have been pulled at Cave Rock.

American Fork is decent limestone, a nice setting, and used to be a sport climbing destination. Proximity to everything else is nice.

Big Cottonwood is a lot like Arapiles in a much nicer setting. Small canyon right next to BCC called Ferguson Canyon is fun and it's amazing on a hot day being down in the trees with a creek.

Little Cottonwood doesn't have sport routes to speak up, but fun crack cragging and peak bagging. This is my home crag.

City of Rocks would be worth your time.

Haven't been to Rifle (drove past it a lot on my way to the Creek...), but think it lends itself best to 5.13 or those trying to break into it.

Red River Gorge is a lot like the Grampians with REALLY creepy locals. If I were you I wouldn't travel across the country for the Red or the New. Maybe save them for an East Coast trip?; Gunks, Daks, Seneca, Looking Glass, etc.

If you haven't been to the Creek, less than a week will probably be heartbreaking and almost a waste of your time. You're going to want at least 7 days just to get in shape/used to the kind of climbing then at least another week to actually go climbing. My suggestion is to hit up the popular crags (Supercrack, Battle of the Bulge) when they are packed, but super friendly foreigners, and trade belays for top ropes for a few days, you can get tons of mileage in this way which is what you need for IC treadmills.

I'll be floating around the US for most of the rest of the year. Plan is Utah in August, The Ditch for September till around Oct. 15th then I'll be augering into the Creek in force for at least 3 weeks in Oct/Nov. Will probably be hooking up with Gareth as well somewhere along the way. I'm SLC based so could easily be talked into a trip to the City of Rocks or anything else if the timing is right.

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