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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles Grotto Wall / Voodo Gully (General) Voodo Buttress [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Bolted route right of Chinese Algerbra

10:26:24 AM
Does anyone have a name and grade for the newish route about 3m right of Chinese Algerbra. It is about
grade 21/22ish with two hangerless glue-in carrots. It is really nice!
12:23:35 PM
Does it share the start and finish of Chinese Algebra? There is a Chinese Algebra Direct written up somewhere I think - it goes direct through the bulge about 2-3m right of CA's crux arete. But from memory the bolts looked reasonably old last time I was there. Is that what you're talking about or is there another one further right?
1:29:44 PM
it was put up by clive curson (Lou shepherd's partner) a few years ago, he graded it 19, but Lou assures me it's desperate for midgets so I haven't done it. You could call them for details about it.
5:26:08 PM
From around the corner, it didn't sound like a 19 !!

5:34:20 PM
On 8/08/2005 Wendy wrote:
>it was put up by clive curson (Lou shepherd's partner) a few years ago,
>he graded it 19, but Lou assures me it's desperate for midgets so I haven't
>done it.

It was 19ish until the last bolt - where there was a very reachy move over a bulge which was very
desperate (22ish). Very little feet and rubbish slopers. If you had a foot more reach than me (ie Kent,
Jono ect!) it would be 19. The route is the only viable line JUST right of Chinese Algerbra. I think the
route deserves two stars - its really nice. Perfect rock, great features and quite long.
9:37:32 PM
Did it today, went just right of the top bolt and thought it was 19ish - but I do have 6'2" worth of arms. It's
basically a bit contrived at that point - you can go another move or two R and it would get easier still.
Lovely climb though, especially past the first bolt.

There are 6 messages in this topic.


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