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17/03/2010 8:36:26 PM
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Hi All,
New to the game and made the mistake of stopping to look for too long at the crag at Blue Lake last year while trying to climb the Aussie 10 in 24 hours....... Seem to be a good few easy/moderate routes there looking at an old guide but I cannot find any info on what gear to take. Like I say, still learning to lead and thinking that I would like to do some 12-16 routes.
And then I had to look at the photos 'superstu' posted from '08. Obsessed. What do I take?
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17/03/2010 8:55:57 PM
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Last time I went there I had a sets of cams with double in the small stuff + 1.5 sets of nuts + rps + hexes. It got me up the easy stuff with heaps left over to build an anchor.
Of that gear I used the nuts + hexes the most, so if you were good with your nuts you could make do with only one set of cams in the smaller sizes I reckon.
Also don't for get the bug spray
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17/03/2010 9:12:23 PM
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Thanks so much for your advice Matthew.
Kimbyl
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18/03/2010 8:46:46 AM
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I found that the cracks accepted passive gear very well. A lot of pod-like features in the cracks possibly due to freeze/thaw(??). Can't remember using any RPs. Some bigger gear can help, after all it is granite.
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18/03/2010 9:35:42 AM
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I found a standard rack to #4 camalot worked. I also took double #1 and #2 camalots which came in handy when leading that picture perfect 19 crack just to the right of the most obvious line, the grade 13 dihedral corner thing on elephant buttress...
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18/03/2010 10:43:27 AM
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On 18/03/2010 citationx wrote:
>picture perfect 19 crack
Mindbender - megawegacwassic
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18/03/2010 12:19:55 PM
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Yeah, lots of wires and hexes (of course, if you own lots of cams and don't mind carrying they'll do the trick too)
Some time in april/may it gets cold and all the evil biting things freeze to death and life in the snowies becomes pleasant again, hahaha, die little bloodsucking muthafuchkers!
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21/03/2010 3:14:35 PM
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21/03/2010 6:26:59 PM
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always thought the most used pieces on granite tended to be #1s and #2s (BD cam sizes) re larger pieces (bigger than nuts).
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21/03/2010 8:25:06 PM
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ice screws.. !!
(sorry, never knew anyone climbed there in summer....)
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21/03/2010 8:39:40 PM
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The climbing is much better in summer.
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21/03/2010 8:59:52 PM
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22/03/2010 3:26:19 PM
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Nuts and wire are fine I don't think I used any cams on MindBender.
Cams up to size #2.5 would be useful
Dave
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22/03/2010 4:44:21 PM
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Stefan, your pics are great! Really fun historic view of climbing at Blue Lake. Thanks.
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22/03/2010 5:11:41 PM
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On 22/03/2010 dfinnecy wrote:
>Stefan, your pics are great! Really fun historic view of climbing at Blue
>Lake. Thanks.
As Sinatra once sang: "You make me feel so young........" (but thanks)
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22/03/2010 6:50:04 PM
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On 22/03/2010 dfinnecy wrote:
>Stefan, your pics are great! Really fun historic view of climbing at Blue
>Lake. Thanks.
I agree. Looks like they had a lot of snow in 1953.
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22/03/2010 7:05:31 PM
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On 22/03/2010 wallwombat wrote:
>On 22/03/2010 dfinnecy wrote:
>>Stefan, your pics are great! Really fun historic view of climbing at
>Blue
>>Lake. Thanks.
>
>I agree. Looks like they had a lot of snow in 1953.
A great year, Everest was climbed, there was a coronation, and to top it all off I was born.
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23/03/2010 9:33:53 AM
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You were born on top of the mountain?
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23/03/2010 9:34:09 AM
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On 22/03/2010 Stefan Karpiniec wrote:
>
>A great year, Everest was climbed, there was a coronation, and to top
>it all off I was born.
You were born on top of the mountain?
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23/03/2010 9:59:49 AM
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On 23/03/2010 dmnz wrote:
>On 22/03/2010 Stefan Karpiniec wrote:
>>
>>A great year, Everest was climbed, there was a coronation, and to top
>>it all off I was born.
>
>You were born on top of the mountain?
That's a figurative top, not a literal one.
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