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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Ropes for Araps

MonkeyBoy
18/03/2010
1:38:54 PM
Hi All,

Heading down to Araps next week and only have a 50m single rope.

Just wanted to know the general consensus on if thats going really restrict me an what climbs I can get on ? Climbing probably lead grade 16 trad and would be keen on some multi pitch.

Any insight would be appreciated
widewetandslippery
18/03/2010
1:51:28 PM
Araps is a trad area (apart from the bolts, pins, chipped holds and via ferratta) so the use of a rope is considered bad form.

mattjr
18/03/2010
1:54:23 PM
suggest getting hold of a guide book, that way you don't have to rely on advice from chockSTONERS
citationx
18/03/2010
2:01:41 PM
I'd say that you should watch out trying to rap off the Pharos and Atridae (muldoon) area, you'd definitely be screwed there (i think a 70m is the best for muldoon - 60 pushes it), otherwise most areas have alternative (though pain in the arse) descents. watchtower faces can be walked off right side (looking in), tiger wall, bard buttress can be descended off the "back" via ali babas cave and down Alis, Dunes buttress can be walked off down the back and towards the gully walking track etc.
As mentioned in another post you should check the guide if you're going to be on specific buttresses but if you're going to land on top of the mount you can always do the long walk back.

Sabu
18/03/2010
2:04:57 PM
50m rope will be fine. You can walk off most areas and even the pharos has a decent route for those limited to a 50m rope (short rap, walk then another short rap).
You won't be able to link as many pitches and some long pitches may be a little bit of a stretch but its all do able.
widewetandslippery
18/03/2010
2:12:01 PM
Most of the easier routes (to my probally well uninformed knowledge) were put up with ropes well sub 50m. As long as you can look down at your groin and have confidnce the rope won't break you've got the right rope.

MonkeyBoy
18/03/2010
2:30:01 PM
Thanks

wallwombat
18/03/2010
2:30:31 PM
I've only ever had 50m ropes at Araps. They were fine.
hero
18/03/2010
3:17:57 PM
olbert's got a couple of blue ones you could perhaps borrow :)

MonkeyBoy
18/03/2010
3:27:11 PM
Thanks olbert, when can I pick em up ?
martym
18/03/2010
6:56:29 PM
buy a 12m length of 7 or 8mm cordalette, use it for anchors & then add it to your rope if you feel the abseil rope isn't going to reach the ground
(done on Muldoon & Eskimo Nell with mild success, though the 5mm crappy string I used definitely made me consider replacing my cord)
juanes
19/03/2010
2:51:42 PM
50 meter will be file for all single pitches. For multi pitch a 60m will be sufficient, but you will be walking off rather than rapping down, most of the longer stuff. I like to use doubles or twins (60m) for any multi pitch climb (it just gives you so much greater capacity to deal with bad situations).

masterofrup
20/03/2010
10:08:36 AM
i'm sure I have rapped off the pharos in two pitches with a 50 m rope and the watchtower face. I won't promise anything but I don't remember ever dropping my 50m rope over an edge to see the ends dangling any more than a tiny bit above the ground or the next station. My ideal for arapiles would be double 60m ropes (a lot of routes wander a bit) but I really don't think there would be more than a handful of situations that a single 50m wouldn't do the job.
but I agree with others, buy a guide and you'll be fine with your rope.
Olbert
20/03/2010
2:02:49 PM
Unfortunately the double ropes were taken away by some right wing, neo-liberal, neo-nazi materialist. He didnt understand that they were not 'his' ropes, nor 'my' ropes but rather 'the' ropes!
k
20/03/2010
2:04:46 PM
On 20/03/2010 Olbert wrote:
>Unfortunately the double ropes were taken away by some right wing, neo-liberal,
>neo-nazi materialist. He didnt understand that they were not 'his' ropes,
>nor 'my' ropes but rather 'the' ropes!

Sheesh, not that you're bitter eh Olbert.

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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