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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

newcastle area

12:12:29 PM
Just wondering if anyone knows of any climbing areas not too far from Newcastle, NSW that would be worth checking out? Climbing or bouldering. Deciding whether to extend a work trip to cover the weekend ;-)
1:14:22 PM
There is some great climbing in that region if you have a car or lift.

Port Stephans (Tomaree) and Bulladealha are both very good areas.

The central coast has worthwhile (read ok, nothing to write home about) sanstone climbing.

There is granite bouldering/surfing/fishing galore south of Port Stephans.

The 5* crag near Newcastle is Monkey Face. Its the place to go.

1:19:19 PM
Ooh, sounds promising!
I guess I should be asking then if anyone is climbing in these areas across the weekend of 9th-11th April :-)
2:10:25 PM
>The 5* crag near Newcastle is Monkey Face. Its the place to go.

I think Mythbusters need to look into this
The Watagans are made from something slightly less than sandstone.

There is good bouldering at both Port Stephens and the Central Coast if you are alone.

Some CC pics can be found under

5:46:57 PM
Lest WW&S spelling errors get you lost:
Buladelah is 1hr north of Newcastle. Mixture of sport and trad routes. Mostly scattered and hard to find your way around without a local, but some classic climbing. Some weird rock a bit like limestone
Port Stephens: lots of areas, climbing on rhyodacite (I think)- a bit like v fine granite, but better. From N to south * means online guide (sydney rockies)
Tomaree Head: officially banned
Paradise Beach
Fingal Gym*
Treatment Plants*
Skate Park
Morna Point (one mile beach)*
The Surge*
The Slot
Boat Harbour Bouldering (The Docks)
the Scout Area
Kingsley Beach bouldering
Iris Moore Park

In Newcastle itself is one chossy crag- Glenrock. More fun than the gym though.
The Watagans: low priority like Pommy says, keep going to the Central Coast

Best climbing on ccoast depends on grades you climb (and weather)
Popran and Jolls Bridge and Bogas cave are more interesting
A lot of places are slopy/crimpy horizontal bands eg Phegans, Blackwall Mtn

I may be climbing in Newcastle area that weeknd.
Karl Bromelow
11:25:36 PM
Here are the links to some online guides already mentioned. I've been a couple of times and the Port Stephens area is lovely and great fun.

Take your board Jody. There's a campsite at the back of One Mile Beach. Lovely surf breaks all round there but particularly fun one at the south end of the beach alongside the point around which is Morna Point climbing. Easy walking distance from the caravan park which is a fancy affair with swimming pool etc.

1:05:13 PM
Thanks guys, all very useful info.

VWills, I'll PM you.
Kaj, GREAT idea :-)

1:28:56 PM
On 10/03/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>The 5* crag near Newcastle is Monkey Face. Its the place to go.

Heh, heh, heh, heh!

Mean! Funny but mean.
1:47:44 PM
Pommy has no sense of humour, bloody whinging pom.

I enjoyed my visit to Monkey Face, The walk to the crag and the walk back to the car made me really appreciate the air con in the car.

4:10:28 PM
In my recent summer stint in Singleton I found that the Monkey Face wasnt quite as good as its reputation. It might be the pick of Hunter Valley climbing but if that is the best that I really dont wanna see the rest.
Go for Port Stevens, much better climbing there!

There are 10 messages in this topic.


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