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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Topic Date User

Way of all flesh permadraws 8-Jan-2010 At 2:08:21 PM spicelab

Message

On 7/01/2010 SteveC wrote:
>The perma draws thing seems pretty popular in the states even to the extent
>of fixed steel chain draws
>on some routes.
>Dont forget to look at the wear on the biners that protect the crux
>In the big cave in Maple Canyon, Utah, i found one biner that was so worn
>from ropes running through it
>that it really had a razor sharp edge, just begging to deglove a rope.
>
Ditto a number of crags at Red River Gorge. I was there in October and there are still loads of fixed draws remaining from the "Petzl Roc Trip" a couple of years ago, plus many more that predate those. The trifecta of fixed hangers gouging more than half way through the rock biner, slings baking in the sun and the rope biner copping it from the hordes of traffic did not do much for my confidence.

Or at least for my climbing partner Will, who was actually competent enough to climb on the harder routes.

Fanatastic place apart from that...