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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Juggy classic, first new route of decade?
mikl law
6/01/2010
12:19:19 PM
This one is an utter classic on briliant red rock

Rutger Hauer 23 Sport
Take 13 draws and belay gear. Start, best to leave gear at the col above Yesterday's groove, scramble down and rap down Yesterday’s Groove raps, walk right 120m to small ledge in corner at left side of steep orange wall, single U belay.
1) 30m 20 Up and right to belay on second ledge, DUB.
2) 30m 22 Right and up to DUB.
Walk right 15m to DUB and rebelay.
3) 30m 23 Up to DUB.
4) 15m 19 Up to cave DUB. Walk off right and up right of second cliffline, then left along ridge to col.
105m Steve Moon, Mikl, 01/01/2010


Do this and Mild Peril for 8 pitches of jug hauling at 20,22,23,21,21,22,23,20

hangdog
6/01/2010
12:58:29 PM
good to see steve moon geting out amongst it.

evanbb
6/01/2010
1:45:15 PM
I really like the spray of euco foliage in the top right of the photo.
mikl law
6/01/2010
1:47:36 PM
He "claimed" the line about 12 years ago (not by pssing on the base of it, just by growling mine mine mine) when we were doing Red Edge. The when we did Mild Peril last month he was asking if there were any routes on it, I told him that last time I walked under it there was barbed wire and Moon Constructions sign at the base.
simey
6/01/2010
8:53:10 PM
One thing about the climb that sounds appealing is that if you and Steve hauled your arses up it then it must be soft touch for 23.
mikl law
7/01/2010
12:24:48 PM
And I'll still be climbing 23 in 23 years for that very reason, even if the only 23s I can get up are the ones I put up. Having tried yesterday's groove recently I can state that the old 24s are grades harder than the new 24s
hipster
7/01/2010
12:52:35 PM
On 6/01/2010 simey wrote:
> soft touch

Have you got that heater on under your desk to keep your feet warm as you typed that?

-deano-
7/01/2010
1:05:05 PM
On 6/01/2010 simey wrote:
>One thing about the climb that sounds appealing is that if you and Steve
>hauled your arses up it then it must be soft touch for 23.

simey, what was the last 23 you got up?
it must have been a very long time ago.. was she blonde or brunette?
gfdonc
7/01/2010
1:56:48 PM
Ewww, that really distorted the second part of Mikl's first sentence for me. Echhh.
SM
7/01/2010
5:24:53 PM
Ha Ha Simey , soft touch................maybe !

The line behind the eco-spray above pitch 2 is claimed.


evanbb
7/01/2010
5:29:59 PM
How's the corner look up close? Vegetation I could handle, choss, not so much stomach.
simey
7/01/2010
9:59:48 PM
I'm assuming it is over-bolted too. I will contact M9 and see if he wants an easy day out. How many quickdraws did you say it needs... 13? I will tell him to bring 6.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
7/01/2010
10:02:27 PM
On 7/01/2010 simey wrote:
>I'm assuming it is over-bolted too. I will contact M9 and see if he wants an easy day out. How many quickdraws did you say it needs... 13? I will tell him to bring 6.

Happy new year simey!
Sounds like a bit of adventure. I'll toss you for the crux pitch!

>Rutger Hauer

Well done SM & Mikl. It looks enticing and the area is destined to become classic, especially with the similar quality climbing close at hand due your hard work.
One Day Hero
7/01/2010
11:47:40 PM
I have noticed that from certain angles Steve bares a striking resemblence to Mr. Hauer circa Ladyhawke..

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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