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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC All (General) (General) (General) [ Victoria Guide | Images ] 

Author
Poxbow at Camels
franga
5/06/2005
9:40:16 PM
Just wondering where people do the traverse on Poxbow. I've always traversed under the second bulge, above the bolt on the direct finish to Split Images, until someone pointed out how they interpreted the guide which was below this bolt. Which way do people generally traverse???
21Cmalaise
5/06/2005
11:10:32 PM
Yeah that is a strange one. I have always done the same but have often wondered. I traverse across the huge flake and then right up the middle of the bulge.

shaggy
5/06/2005
11:25:04 PM
Yeah, I was there on Sat, and also couldn't quite work it out, mind you I didn't have a guide book though, just the stuff printed off here.
Robin
6/06/2005
6:13:34 PM
Quite understandable that there is confusion. When editing the guide I had trouble working out where the two climbs crossed.

The original description for poxbow (as included in the guide) is to start 6m left of Oxbow, up 10m and right onto arete. Traverse right under bulge on monster jug then up.

Now for Soxglo you start 2m left of Oxbow, that is 4m right of Poxbow. Soxglo goes up then diagonally left, crossing Poxbow. ie Poxbow starts left and finishes rioht, soxglow starts right and finishes left.

There are any number of variants/combinations for the two climbs and it doesn't make sense to cross over the climbs. I start at the one point about 6m L of oxbow. I go up the buttress to crack then either right to ring bolt and finish as for Poxbow Gr 17 or I continue straight up corner/arete then right at scooped out section, about Gr 16. One good variant is to go up Poxbow to roof then traverse left under roof then finish up Soxglo (grade 20 approx) and another good variant is to pull straight up steep section above scooped out section at top of Soxglo, also about grade 20. There is another variant start in the Oxbow chimney that goes at about 20.
franga
7/06/2005
11:43:19 AM
there is also a bolt with what looks like a home made fixed hanger on the wall opposite no joys second pitch. It looks like the line leads up to a wide crack. Anyone know what the route is etc etc

steph
21/06/2005
10:04:20 AM
On 6/06/2005 Robin wrote:
>Quite understandable that there is confusion. When editing the guide I
>had trouble working out where the two climbs crossed.
>
>The original description for poxbow (as included in the guide) is to start
>6m left of Oxbow, up 10m and right onto arete. Traverse right under bulge
>on monster jug then up.
>
>Now for Soxglo you start 2m left of Oxbow, that is 4m right of Poxbow.
> Soxglo goes up then diagonally left, crossing Poxbow. ie Poxbow starts
>left and finishes rioht, soxglow starts right and finishes left.
>
>There are any number of variants/combinations for the two climbs and it
>doesn't make sense to cross over the climbs. I start at the one point
>about 6m L of oxbow. I go up the buttress to crack then either right to
>ring bolt and finish as for Poxbow Gr 17 or I continue straight up corner/arete
>then right at scooped out section, about Gr 16. One good variant is to
>go up Poxbow to roof then traverse left under roof then finish up Soxglo
>(grade 20 approx) and another good variant is to pull straight up steep
>section above scooped out section at top of Soxglo, also about grade 20.
> There is another variant start in the Oxbow chimney that goes at about
>20.

hmm......no wonder i was confused too...

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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