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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All TAS (General) (General) (General)  

Author
The Guardians, Tasmania
tonytas
15/10/2009
4:26:35 PM
We are trying to trace old route descriptions of a number of big climbs on the Guardians (near Lake St Clair) for the Tasmanian Climbing Guide. In particular, has anyone got any info on the routes climbed by 1) Peter Treby and Terry Brooks (1972) and 2) Reg Williams and Roland Pauligk (1974) e.g. "The Dragon", a 270m grade 20? We are also after details on those routes added by Baxter, Lindorff, Muhlen and Lockwood in 1976 e.g. "Excelsior" (16), "Warrior" (17), "Guardian Angel" and "the Monster" (20). There may be info on these climbs in old Thrutch or Argus mags of the time, if anyone still has them. Info on these or any other climbs done in the area would be terrific and could be posted on Thesarvo.com site or here . Cheers.
kevinl
22/10/2009
4:15:54 PM
I seem to remember doing one or two new routes there with Roark Muhlen back in the 70s. One was a grade 16 (maybe called "Arch de Ballsnatcher") and one that we tried (maybe we did it, maybe we backed off, I can't remember) was a route with an off-width crux graded maybe 20-22 - it was just right of a scree gully right of the main section of cliff.
From memory (a dangerous hing I know) the writeup(s) was/were in an Argus of the time.
BA
22/10/2009
5:46:47 PM


AND ...



Answers part of the question. I don't have any early '70s copies of Argus, something I must chase up one day ...
tonytas
23/10/2009
4:39:36 PM
Many thanks, guys. That doubles the number of climbs known there!
Would be interested in any comments on how to access the crag at the bottom as it seems the scrub is really thick round Lake Marion. Hope to get there this summer to check it out.

nerm
24/10/2009
4:46:10 PM
Have added these two to the cradle / lake st clair guide at
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Cradle+Mountain+-+Lake+St+Clair
tonytas
17/11/2009
6:54:44 PM
Anyone able to check out old Argus or Thrutch mags for 1976/7 for more info, particulalry on the "Turret" and "The Guardian", mentioned in the descriptions above? And where the descent gully is on the crag?
The search goes on....
tonytas
1/12/2009
1:29:41 PM
BTW, thanks to detective work by Chris Baxter and Peter Jackson in particular, we have now traced details of another 8 major long climbs up to Grade 20 on the mountain. Thanks, guys.
If you have any other info on Tassie climbs from yesteryear, please let me know so we can include it in the next edition of the Tasmanian Climbing Guide and on thesarvo web site.

JamesMc
1/12/2009
8:34:56 PM
Any opinions as to whether The Guardians are a worthwhile climbing destination?

I'll be passing on a walking trip in January so I'll probably take a look myself.

JamesMc
tonytas
1/12/2009
9:16:42 PM
Check out the web site and make up your own mind - and let us know your opinion when you get back so we can update the info!
http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Cradle+Mountain+-+Lake+St+Clair
Tlockwood
2/12/2009
2:29:03 PM
I'll give my dad a bell, he has a full collection of thrutch and argus i think. should help hopefully.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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