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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author

Guidebooks, Partners, and General Beta

Yankeeclimber

24-Jan-2011
2:31:04 PM

I will be traveling solo to Australia with the primary purpose of climbing, flying into Sydney, from March 16-April 19th. I am looking for any suggestions for the best climbing guidebooks used for Blue Mtns, Nowra, Arapiles, Sydney, or Melbourne areas. Anywhere there is good climbing suggestions would be much appreciated. Also, I will be hiring a campervan and looking for any partners interested in climbing. I am willing to drive since I have a vehicle I'm already paying for, and you can make sure we get there and that I remember to drive on the left hand side of the road : ) I will only be carrying a sport rack and rope due to packing somewhat light, but I am happy to climb trad if you provide the rack. Thanks for any info!

Cheers,

Keith

nmonteith

24-Jan-2011
2:39:00 PM

Blue Mountains Climbing 2010 - Onsight Photography / Simon Carter

Nowra - by Rod Young (possibly out of print?)

Arapiles Selected Climbs - 2008 OSP Simon Mentz / Glenn Tempest

Grampians Selected Climbs - 2001?? OSP Simon Mentz / Glenn Tempest

Forget local areas in Melbourne and Sydney unless you are desperate...

nmonteith

24-Jan-2011
2:43:55 PM

p.s. you probably should forget about Nowra at that time of year - it will be hot and muggy.

rodw

24-Jan-2011
2:45:36 PM

Also check out online guides...

ACA site
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page_id=10

Sydney climbing
http://www.sydneyclimbing.com/

runnit

24-Jan-2011
3:27:05 PM

I'd say Nowra's still nice if you can get in an early start.

Pt Perp is about 30 min away too and you can chase the shade on the seaside cliffs in the arvo as another option.

k

24-Jan-2011
5:29:02 PM

On 24/01/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Forget local areas in Melbourne and Sydney unless you are desperate...

Be nice, Neil. The new Selected Climbs Melbourne makes it look as if there are actually decent cliffs nearby.

nmonteith

24-Jan-2011
5:52:49 PM

If i had only one month in Australia my tick list would not include insanely sharp granite blobs, mossy cracks and disintegrating cliffs covered in bumblies. I think I'd probably spend a week in the Blue Mountains (mix of mulitpitch sport climbing and canyoning) then head straight to Arapiles for a week and a half of world class trad then do a week in the Grampians doing single pitch stuff. The last three or four days would be spent at Seven Acre Rock on immaculate granite slabs.

Yankeeclimber

25-Jan-2011
1:04:46 PM

Thanks for all the helpful info!!!

shiltz

25-Jan-2011
1:23:55 PM

Did you mean immaculate or pristine Neil?

Tommo

25-Jan-2011
1:35:41 PM

Pt Perpendicular (Jervis Bay, couple of hours south of Sydney) is a must, if only for a day. Very unique. Call ahead to check it is open (the navy use the area intermittently for training).

Olbert

25-Jan-2011
2:00:15 PM

On 25/01/2011 Tommo wrote:
>Pt Perpendicular (Jervis Bay, couple of hours south of Sydney) is a must,
>if only for a day. Very unique. Call ahead to check it is open (the navy
>use the area intermittently for training).
Unless its school holidays (a month or so in mid summer, and a couple of weeks here and there throughout the year) expect it only to be open on weekends - even then ring ahead. It is possible that it could be open during the week at other times but just be aware that it is most likely not.

widewetandslippery

25-Jan-2011
3:23:11 PM

A seppo called Kieth. Unreal.
As you'll have a sport rack you'll need to pick up some "bolt plates" when you get here for carrot type bolts. There is some divinely provident difference between glue in an smash in carrots. You'll see and experience it when you start learning to place the plates.

If you are not a >5.13 climber Araps on bolts sucks the big one as far as routes. Good bouldering and most likely place you can hook up with a stray local or wog with a rack. There are some lower grade sport routes in the gramps but they are Neils and they suck;)

Pt Perp as mentioned above is exceptional. Most routes are on gear or mixed bolts and gear. The local tradition is to smash a parked cars window in nowra and pinch a rack before heading out there. With only a sport rack you can top rope verdon style and have a great time. This area is worth a visit even for not climbing. Its not far out of Nowra. Nowra is worth a visit for a rack on the way to Araps.

Between Nowra and Sydney is a city called Wollongong which is held in the shadowy clutches of the fearsome Mt Kiera. It is the Australian crag to head for.

There is an awesome Ceuse type crag in southern Sydney called Blue Bell. A must. It is a towering mass of the brightest orange stone. Close to the car.

nmonteith

25-Jan-2011
3:27:06 PM

On a serious note go and do a route on the 300m high Bungonia Gorge. It's limestone and about 3 hours into the drive between Sydney and Melbourne. Google it - you won't be disappointed.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

25-Jan-2011
7:59:22 PM

>Google it - you won't be disappointed.

... unless you expect to find a climbing partner there already!

Maidy

26-Jan-2011
4:07:41 AM

Very informative. I've been gathering notes here for future trip planning.

So let me see if I have this straight. I'll need bolt plates, a hammer for the window-smashing- thing (to save weight on the airplane of course), and Neils' routes are to be avoided ;). thanks guys!

There are 15 messages in this topic.