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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Solo Hauling
brendan
Online Now
6/01/2011
1:43:38 PM
hi all,
i have been messing around with solo aid systems and have a question for the solo aiders out there,
You have lead a traversing/overhanging pitch, built an anchor and now need to abseil down the haul line to get back to the lower anchor. Whats your prefered method of anchoring the haul line at the top of the pitch before you rap down it?

the options that i have come up with/read about are

The Knot Method
-You can tie a knot in the haul line,
-rap from that knot,
-release the pig, clean pitch, back to anchor
-now do a mini haul to take the weight off the knot,
-now you can put the slack rope into your hauling device
-start hauling

The Prussick Method
-You can thread the haul device,
- tie a knot in it as a back up,
- hang the hauline off a prussick attached to a bomber peice of gear so the device is not taking any weight,
-rap the haul line
-release the pig, clean pitch, back to anchor
-start to haul as normal,
-the prussick releases and you can now take it off and continue hauling


The hauling device method
-Rap directly off the hauling device, backed up with a knot
-release the pig, clean pitch, back to anchor
-start to haul


whats your prefered methord? have a different methord?
Fish Boy
6/01/2011
5:48:30 PM
Haven't done much solo hauling, this is what I do....

If it's traversing, maybe rap and clean and don't rap the haul line? Lower out then jug. If it's over hanging, either thread the haul line through the pulley, or just tie it off, no big difference either way.

Pass the Pitons Pete has good info on this, but his systems are generally overly complicated. There will be some stuff on supertopo, and probably mtnproj where he posts a bunch of stuff. RC.com still has his old posts too....
singersmith
6/01/2011
7:13:33 PM
Pete knows lots, enough to confuse you to no end.

Rather than type out a description I'd be willing to show you what I do. If you're in the City I'll be around all week, if not, I'm up at the Buff pretty often this time of the year.
brendan
Online Now
6/01/2011
7:28:28 PM
Hey Singer i live up in Canberra, bit far to head to Melbourne : ) i'll probably catch you at buffalo i'll be back and forwards from here to there a couple more times this month
Fish Boy
6/01/2011
9:37:45 PM
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/big_wall_and_aid_climbing/hauling_walls_on_aid_solo/106954154
brendan
Online Now
6/01/2011
10:08:13 PM
thanks Nick i had done abit of research on the web and found that link, was just wondering if anyone here had a better method?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/01/2011
10:25:03 PM
Ahh, another 'it depends' type question!

*Depends on how traversy the pitch was (horizontal vs rising traverse!), and how many haulbag-catchy-things are on it.
*Depends on how overhanging.
*Depends on how heavy the wombat (pig), is.
*Depends on what haul device (if any), used ie how agressive are its 'teeth' / pulley diameter and axle strength.
*Depends on diameter /condition of the haul rope, and if I'd trust my life to it!
*Depends upon etc, etc, etc.

It really is not overly complicated, as all the scenarios you have outlined work(!), as well as others; like releasable knots to support the abseil/haul rope, or even placing (if it is an option, ie you followed a crack to get to where you are right?), a lower piece below the haul setup, to take the weight.

I have used the 'knot method', but did not require a mini haul to get it out, due the load was not excessive on that trip.

On another trip I have abseiled directly off the backed up haul device. Really, my puny 85kg bodyweight at the time was less than the wombat load I had that time, so what does the haul rope / haul setup care?

Additional notes...
Generally I haul on a 9mm static.
I have sometimes taken a 7mm 'zip line' and abseiled that, instead of stuffing about with my haul system!

After you get this scenario sorted, then you can go to the joys of a series of pendules with a following haulbag! Heh, heh, heh.
brendan
Online Now
6/01/2011
10:49:28 PM
On 6/01/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Ahh, another 'it depends' type question!
>
>*Depends on how traversy the pitch was (horizontal vs rising traverse!),
>and how many haulbag-catchy-things are on it.
>*Depends on how overhanging.
>*Depends on how heavy the wombat (pig), is.
>*Depends on what haul device (if any), used ie how agressive are its 'teeth'
>/ pulley diameter and axle strength.
>*Depends on diameter /condition of the haul rope, and if I'd trust my
>life to it!
>*Depends upon etc, etc, etc.

as with all things it depends : )

>
>It really is not overly complicated, as all the scenarios you have outlined
>work(!), as well as others; like releasable knots to support the abseil/haul
>rope, or even placing (if it is an option, ie you followed a crack to get
>to where you are right?), a lower piece below the haul setup, to take the
>weight.
>

true they all work, i usually use the prussick method, i am not that keen on rapping straight off the pro-trax

>I have used the 'knot method', but did not require a mini haul to get
>it out, due the load was not excessive on that trip.
>
>On another trip I have abseiled directly off the backed up haul device.
>Really, my puny 85kg bodyweight at the time was less than the wombat load
>I had that time, so what does the haul rope / haul setup care?

true the haul line is more then strong enough, i was a little worried about rapping straight off the pro-trax after hearing about a guy in the US of A killing himself when jumaring up a loaded pro-trax which broke, although i have rapped off some truely stupid things in the mountains in the past so i probably shouldn't worry : )

>Additional notes...
>Generally I haul on a 9mm static.
>I have sometimes taken a 7mm 'zip line' and abseiled that, instead of
>stuffing about with my haul system!

i brought a 10mm haul line a month ago from "climbing anchors" and i give it two big thumbs up, my old 9mm was not that durable and wore out really quickly

>After you get this scenario sorted, then you can go to the joys of a series
>of pendules with a following haulbag! Heh, heh, heh.

cant wait : )

sliamese
12/01/2011
7:45:40 AM
The way ive done its always on the pro trax, with an overhand(or any knot) behind backinh it up if teeth do somehow fail. Before you go back down, pull most of the slack through protraxion. Then before lowering out bags, slide knot protector on the haul line up, and tie am alpine butterfly beneath it to tack out excess slack in the system then lower bags out! Thats how i done all my solo hauling without complication!

I like this methpd because theres no unweighting of potentially massive bags, its ready to haul as soon as urback at belay and its not a 'depends' set up. I use it exclusively wether the pitch traverses or is dead plumb. Note though you do need to jug the tail of your line on big traverses!

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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