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General Climbing Discussion

Ethics or simply WTF?
Winston Smith
1:04:41 PM
Barbie Twins (16) at the Thompson's Point descent gully walls was a nice little trad oddity amid the bolts, a nice crack with a balancy slabby bit.

Now it's bolted and apparently " a classic at the grade..Probably easier than Santa's Little Helper" (15).

From the comments on the of those who climbed it as a trad route it was actually pretty good without the bolts...

1:39:24 PM
I think i'd WTF just as much at seeing someone wandering around Thompson's Point with a trad rack :o)

1:50:29 PM
There was a climb at Thompson's Point that didn't already have twenty zillion bolts on it? Just maybe, the biggest and most unapologetic sport climbing area in Australia is the wrong place to be making a stand about ethics...

Big G
2:04:26 PM
the cracks still free and available for any gear you want to place in it. the bolts aren't in the way of that. if someone started grid bolting piddo it might be worth a whinge.
Winston Smith
4:28:26 PM
Each response is fair enough - except the ham sandwiches jibe - yuk!

Yeah we know it's Nowra, the land that ethics forgot, but still enough people had experienced it in its unbolted state for it to remain a word-of-mouth recommendation as a novelty trad route.

Plenty of people have trad gear in their packs - they might be off to Point Perp - when they go to Thompson's but they're too afraid to leave it in the car 'cause of the local larceny issues.

On reflection, might as well bolt the rest of the natural lines that are left then.

I assume that "the Handcrack (17)" is now fair game. Does anyone object if I nip down this weekend and turn it into a warm up? It'd be a funky curving layback for those kids who don't like jamming/jambing.

6:55:54 PM
On 25/10/2010 davidn wrote:
>I like ham. And I boulder. But sometimes climb trad. I'm so confused.
> Should I wear a beanie while eating them?

always wear a beanie when eating boulderererers
7:01:45 PM
On 25/10/2010 DanMac wrote:
>I think i'd WTF just as much at seeing someone wandering around Thompson's
>Point with a trad rack :o)

I reckon that's exactly why it should be left untouched!
So the future gen of sport climbers can say to their 'wiser' friends "what is all that crap on that guys harness?"
"you see billy, before climbing was overcome by OHS trained drill wielding bolt jockeys - a climber would have to take care of himself."
"but it looks so heavy, how can they keep their balance?"
"billy, there's a lot of things we sport climbers just will never understand."
7:03:15 PM
On 25/10/2010 Big G wrote:
>the cracks still free and available for any gear you want to place in it.
>the bolts aren't in the way of that.

But it's a shame to protect climbs that could be top roped in order to teach those interested how to place gear properly....

8:30:53 PM
There's still a good contender for the Thompson's Point Novelty Trad Route - Nobody Told Me (17), the crack in the middle of the the pocketed wall.

I did it on Sunday when it rained all day and the only things climbable were from Murdoch to Electro. Absolute bugger to get off! (no lower offs)

There are 9 messages in this topic.


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