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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User
Multiptich anchor question 30-Sep-2010 At 3:19:44 PM jkane
Message
Make sure your anchor is multi-directional, i.e will take an upward pull without ripping out some or all of the pieces!!

Both leader and 2nd use a sling and locking biners to lock yourself directly into the anchors (best to use the central point so you are using all the anchor pieces).

Double check that you are safe and swap places.

Both untie and swap ends of the rope.

Double check you are both tied in correctly. New belayer makes sure he's attached to the anchors in the correct way for belaying - all pieces under equal tension.

Put new leader on belay, detach leader's safety sling and lead off.

Hardly "more efficient" with all that swapping about. If your not careful, you end up with a tangled mess,

You should probably either get some instruction or at least get a book or 2nd a more experienced leader a few times. Also make sure you have plenty of time, water, maybe a spare layer. Pick something below your usual grade. Double and triple check everything.

There are 36 replies to this topic.

 

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