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General Climbing Discussion

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Descending off Multipitch? 18-Sep-2010 At 6:23:21 PM singersmith

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>In 'traditional' climbing, when you do a 'multi-pitch', with a single
>rope, how does one descend? If the route calls for three sections which
>are each 50 or 60m long, and the group has one rope, does this mean they
>can descend only 30m at a time on the rope doubled over?
>

Yes. Rarely do you descend the same way you ascended. Walk off whenever possible, most accidents happen on the descent.

>I do not understand how this can work, if anchors spots are normally at
>end of section (pitch?), does this mean you have to leave equipment to
>rappel off every 30m or so? Does this mean you have to leave gear on cliff
>every time you climb a multi-pitch traditional climb? Or do you hang rope
>around knob of rock? What if there is no knob of rock?
>
Often one or two abseil routes serve an entire cliff. And yes, when you rappel it is off gear that is "fixed" or left in place; sometimes bolts, sometimes rock gear, sometimes a tree.

>Or do you always have to carry two ropes on multi-pitch climbing, one
>to climb and another to rappel? In John Longs book it says two ropes are
>only for specialists and experienced climbers, so how does a beginner with
>only one rope descend, without leaving equipment on the cliff?

Second rope for beginners if you are hauling a pack, on a long route and might need to bail, or will need two ropes for the abseil route as would be noted in the guide book.