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Topic Date User
Anchor testing (PV)-commercial climbing sites Vic 19-Jul-2010 At 8:29:43 PM Access T CliffCare
Hi All,

Below is an excerpt from my last Access report in the July Argus that relates to the You Yangs Anchor testing and replacement:

And while we are on the subject of the You Yangs, the anchors that serviced a
number of commercial sites there and also Staunton Vale and Werribee Gorge
have now been tested and inspected by PV. As I reported a few months ago,
whilst the Staunton Vale and Werribee anchors tested ok, there were concerns
that most of the You Yang anchors due to undergo testing would not pass and
if they did, there was a possibility that their integrity would be compromised by
the testing process. This was due to the fact that most of them were quite old
carrots with unknown history. Rather than test them, concerns by all parties,
climbing community included was a governing factor in the decision to just
replace them. The work was undertaken by Vertigo and hardware used was Petzl
Battenocks. Small plaques have been placed next to the anchors for testing/
recording purposes. Size is approx 4cm x 2cm. Photos show some of the anchors
at Urinal Wall. The following is a list of the anchors and approximate location of
them in reference to routes. This description may not be completely accurate as
the list was provided to me. As reported this was more to do with the sites that
the commercial operators use as opposed to the routes themselves.

Big Rock:(East Face) East Meets West
Big Rock:(East Face) Bouldering on the Berlin Wall
Big Rock:(East Face) The Iron Curtain
Big Rock:(East Face) View to the West
Big Rock:(West Face) From the Ritz to the Rubble
Big Rock:(West Face) Phil's Fall
Big Rock:(West Face) Key Finder
Big Rock:(West Face) Plague Nottle
Urinal Wall Busting For Relief
Urinal Wall Royal Flush
Urinal Wall Round the Bend
Royalty Wall Dead Queen in the Middle of the Road
Royalty Wall Buckingham
Gravel Pit Tor: (Main Face) Front Face
Gravel Pit Tor: (Overhang) Question of Ethics Wall
Gravel Pit Tor: (Overhang) Orpheus Aręte

I am explaining this with the understanding that majority of you are aware of the
work that has been going on with the anchor testing. For anyone that may have
missed previous reports, I can let you know more – just drop me a line.
Once again I was assured by those I have been dealing with at PV, that the only
anchors they were testing were the ones at sites where they booked commercial
groups into and there was no natural protection with which to build anchors.
They weren’t interested in testing/replacing any others or any face bolts.

(Lets hope I've uploaded the pics ok - always have to retrain myself in uploading them)



There are 112 replies to this topic.


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