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Atrocity at Camels!!

hanh

4-Apr-2004
6:36:17 PM

So WHO.....WHO!!!!......was the IDIOT that broke off the KEYhold on 'The Green Alliance' (25) at Camels???????????


alrob

4-Apr-2004
6:55:31 PM

just to show my anger and disgust, i'm saying this from New Zealand.....

...what the f***


phil_nev

4-Apr-2004
7:04:11 PM

Ohhh, i know, i know... hehe

Said hold almost cleaned me up whilst belaying :)

Green Alliance now pushing grade 27????

hanh

4-Apr-2004
7:12:15 PM

so phil.....you KNOW this so called perp???? tsk tsk.......shame!....SHAAAAAME!! my hopes and dreams are now completely shattered (literally) thanks to the action of one monstrous climber with more muscle than ethics!! again....FOR SHAAAAAME!!

JOEMOR

4-Apr-2004
7:13:26 PM

the route is now in worse condition than kents 80's climbing shoes!

gfdonc

4-Apr-2004
8:17:18 PM

Sounds like enforcing a sequence 2 me ..


mousey

4-Apr-2004
8:56:25 PM

haha :) you guys in victoria should feel privelidged to break off holds- theres no such thing as loose chossy sandshit here in the blueys....


nmonteith

5-Apr-2004
12:14:57 PM

which hold? - glad i didn't give it a go then. My super static technique tends to put a lot of pressure on them holds...

heathyray

5-Apr-2004
12:24:03 PM

I nearly got it on film!


rodw

5-Apr-2004
4:41:02 PM

>theres no such thing as loose chossy sandshit here in the blueys....

Nah we just call it solid rock and futuristic lines.

The best thing about a key hold coming off is your graph in thecrag.com just get better and better as the climbs you ticked get harder and harder. Thats why Im climbing all the choss now, cause in years from now Ill look like a hard man and start off every sentance with "In my day...."


mousey

5-Apr-2004
7:42:05 PM

dont you do that stuff already, just without the hardman image? :P


rodw

5-Apr-2004
8:00:47 PM

"In my day mouses never spoke"...hows that :)


timmy

5-Apr-2004
8:57:10 PM

All this pressure... I CONFESS!!!! IT WAS ME!!!!

Sorry everyone..

dalai

6-Apr-2004
10:25:55 AM

Timmy,

I assume it was the sidepull between the first and second bolts?? Is there anything useable since it's removal?

Martin

joemor

6-Apr-2004
11:31:25 AM

yep thats the hold... its probably still doable but witha much more desperate sequence...... the side pull left NOTHING when i came off.....

dalai

6-Apr-2004
11:34:42 AM

Thanks. As long as there are still enough smaller holds so the climb will still be possible...


timmy

6-Apr-2004
10:28:31 PM

Unfortunately there is bugger all left, and the hold shattered into about 20 bits when it landed, negating any udea of gluing it back on.

Dalai, was talking to someone today who said that you didn't use that flake on your FA, and was thinking about breaking it off beforehand. Is that true?


phil_nev

7-Apr-2004
12:48:09 AM

Nah, the real story is that on the F.A marty didnt see the flake, when joe found it, thus reducing the grade to a measly 17, he sent little strong monkey man in to break it off for him... :)


tmarsh

7-Apr-2004
9:06:18 AM

A mate of mine pulled the 'thank god' jug off the lovely Fritz & Cyclops at Summerday. I think the
hold is sitting on my desk, buried under a stack of phone bills. I was considering glueing it back
on, but people were placing a cam behind it prior to it coming off. Dunno how epoxy would go at
holding up to that sort of force. These things happen. In this case, you can get around it, and it
doesn't really change the grade all that much.

If you like you can always glue that jug onto Green Alliance.

tim

dalai

7-Apr-2004
9:18:03 AM

Timmy, thanks for removing it for me, as it avoids the controversy of removing myself after the FA...

Honestly though the FA was over ten years ago, so I can't recall how or if I used the sidepull. The hold I was more concerned with at the time was the flexing undercling below the 3rd bolt which has since gone. Curious to know who your source is?

There are 22 messages in this topic.