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General Climbing Discussion

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New climbing gym in Western Sydney 10-Feb-2010 At 9:15:42 AM garbie

Message

On 10/02/2010 superstu wrote:
>While we're at it... a couple of other things that could improve the experience
> (apart from the crowds)
>
wow Superstu, I'm sending this straight to my route setters - some of them don't believe me when I tell
them these things!

Spinners - don't get me started, I know I know! We've made a lot of improvement over the years - most
of the holds that go on now have a tech screw to stop it, and there isn't many spinners here any more,
but getting rid of those last few % is hard going...

Re colours, I've had a blitz on them the last couple of weeks - hopefully that will be sorted, but we'll
have to keep an eye on those setters...(good blokes and blokettes of course, by the way). I hate
taping holds and have banned it from now on.

And reachy moves... well a topic in itself. Do you get reachy moves at the crag? Yep. Do you get
moves that suit short people more at the crag sometimes - yep. Should you be expected to move
more dynamically sometimes - why not? If the move is reachy, the setter should either make a dyno
feasible (reasonable catch hold for the grade etc), or make a different option for the compact climber.