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General Climbing Discussion

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performance powders
1:45:20 PM
hey lads
Just a quicky on performance enhancing protein/creatine/L-carnitine/etc for use with your work out. I was a state/national level cyclist as a sprinter on the velodrome (hence im a boulderer) and was really into weights n lots of efforts to improve muscle size, strength, n power, aswell as alittle endurance and good recovery so i was right into the whey protein/ creatine so i could enhance these parts of my sport. Now iv changed to a new great sport about 2.5 months ago and i really love it. Im learning so much about the sport of bouldering and understand that to be a high level boulderer you need strength n power out of the leanest muscle you can produce and also need good endurance.
My main point is what you guys think of protein powders for lean muscle strengthening and also W.P.I. for the same aswell as improved recovery?
I already know alittle about the performance of these products due to my earlier sport but i wanted to know how they work for the sport of rockclimbing since its the totally opposite from cycling. As you want small lean strong powerfull muscles comparred to big oversized strong powerfull muscles with little endurance.
Thanks guys and sorry for the long post
mikl law
4:57:37 PM
As climbing is so varied, there are too many things to look out for and few climbers are really committed. Another problem is that the bouldering lifestyle already has many performance powders, as well as being beer monsters (cos you don't have to get out of bed till late) so it's just to orgainised and involved for a boulderer. Most climbers don't really train, the few times I've been fit my footwork has sucked or I've gotten scared. Good luck and tell us if you find something that works well.

9:14:39 AM
Steak, veggies and beer have always worked well for me...

(just cut and paste the link)

3:20:53 PM
Interesting topic, with no clear answers. Many dietary supplements have little or no scientific evidence behind their use, even though the supposed mechanisms appear plausible. For example, an endurance athlete should have an intake of around 1.2-1.7g/kg per day of protein, with slightly higher levels for people undertaking more power based activities (normal RDI is 0.8g/kg). For a 60kg person, this equates to around 100g per day. This is easily supplied by a simple balanced diet. Eg. 100g of chicken supplies around 30g of protein. It is known that insufficient protein will limit muscle growth and repair, however there is little evidence to support protein and/or amino acid supplements in athletes already eating a balanced diet.

Creatine is another difficult one. It appears to be beneficial in power based sports, as it may enhance short term, high intensity exercise. However, it also increases body weight due to fluid retention, which may result in reduced performance, especially in sports like climbing where power to weight ratios are very important.

I could go on...but the long and the short of my answer is to eat a healthy balanced diet, leave the dietary supplements to the gym junkies, and just go out and enjoy climbing! The Dave MacLeod website as some useful tips in relation to training for climbing, which may be of interest to you. See the link below.



Eduardo Slabofvic
3:38:43 PM
If you want to climb well, then get your brain into gear. Being fast at recognising sequences, using holds, foot work etc, will do loads more than any dietary supplements. You’re probably better off doing the opposite and developing some form of eating disorder, like bulimia or anorexia; or learn to love celery.
4:02:37 PM
Get really fat, then start climbing. You'll build higher strength due to the hypergravity effect (see Hoerst), then as you climb more you'll get skinny again. Proof the beer diet actually works.

4:22:48 PM
I note that the thread is directed at the "lads" cos I guess only the lads would want to become strong climbers, us girls just want to ponce around doing our nails....

oh hang I've got it, only the lads would think you become a good climber by using diet supplements. Ah sorry boys. I know, terrible sexist generalisation.

But really, like any sport, you get to the really damn good level by having talent, learning technique and practice practice practice.

4:37:11 PM
I have used creatine for short periods of about a week before a comp or trip and have noticed the benefits, mainly i could continue too pull hard for a longer period off time than before the creatine. Because it was for such a short time then the fluid retention issue was not a problem.
6:48:38 PM
Ahh...but if you had been given a sugar tablet and told it was creatine you would have probably got the
same result!

8:13:55 AM
On 21/12/2009 davepalethorpe wrote:
>The Dave MacLeod website as some useful tips in relation to training for climbing, which may be of interest to you.

Dave MacLeod also has a coaching blog with more stuff and climbing and training:
8:21:05 AM
Dietary supplements = expensive wee
There is some evidence that a little extra of the amino acid isoleucine is required for muscle recovery/building, an extra portion of protein with your evening meal and save youself a 'ship-load' of cash !
A course the under-lying assumption is that you have a well balanced diet to start with.
9:26:52 AM
thanks guys, really helpful..
and the links you posted were helpful thanks
12:45:49 PM
What we really need is a pill that triggers the placebo effect.
1:11:09 PM
On 22/12/2009 kieranl wrote:
>What we really need is a pill that triggers the placebo effect.

For a measly ten dollars a day I will provide you a years supply of special placebo pills
uniquely designed to trigger your placebo effect. You too can can be healthy and virile. PM
me now to sign up.
1:50:25 PM
On 22/12/2009 egosan wrote:
>On 22/12/2009 kieranl wrote:
>>What we really need is a pill that triggers the placebo effect.
>For a measly ten dollars a day I will provide you a years supply of special
>placebo pills
>uniquely designed to trigger your placebo effect. You too can can be healthy
>and virile. PM
>me now to sign up.

Dont take those nasty placebo pills that dont end up working anyway! Dont pay top dollar for medication that wont work! I will be able to trigger the placebo effect drug free! Get on the Olbert-Placebo-Plus-System now. All's you have to do is give 1300-DRUG-FREE-PLACEBO-EFFECT a call.
2:29:25 PM
Which begs the question...
How do you conduct a clinical trial of a placebo?
If the pill being tested is a placebo, what do the other people in the trial get?
2:34:32 PM
On 22/12/2009 kieranl wrote:
>Which begs the question...
>How do you conduct a clinical trial of a placebo?
>If the pill being tested is a placebo, what do the other people in the
>trial get?

Easy. A sugar pill.
1. Apply for government funding.
2. to clinical subject A: "This pill will make your yang large."
3. to clinical subject B: "This pill is sugar and tastes good."
4. send in a grad student with a tape measure.
5. profit
2:34:49 PM
I have been taking BHP (Bloody Huge Powder) - whey protein and creatine supplements for about last 6 months, after regular (weights) gym workouts. I can happily report it hasn't improved my climbing ability at all.
2:45:39 PM
Tough luck, you must have scored the placebo.

3:12:01 PM
Andy Pollitt lived on a diet of beer, fags, egg on toast ('you don't even need a plate!') and Cherry Ripes and he led 32's.

Mister Natural!

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There are 31 messages in this topic.


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