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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Trip preparation - Crack routes
Yann
7/11/2009
7:12:48 PM
Hi Everybody,

I would like to know all the best crack routes 16 to 21/22 you think on Arapiles and Grampians.

I found some topic with search but just for single pitch, not for multi pitch.

Which area have a lot of crack line...?

Thank to you, excuse my basical language.

a bientot !

Yann
NMcKinnon
7/11/2009
7:54:13 PM
Forget about it! Multipitch crack routes (with actual crack climbing) at Araps and Grampians do not exist.

Try going to Buffalo or Ben Lomond instead.
tastybigmac
7/11/2009
8:00:23 PM
passport to insanity
Olbert
7/11/2009
10:02:11 PM
you probably need to be insane to try it free
Yann
8/11/2009
1:10:36 AM
Yes I've seen buffalo have multi pitch, maybe if i have the time...

1 month is too short...

O.K so in Grampian and Arapiles, juste single pitch.

I've seen Black lan's area with lot of crack at Gramians, could you tell me another area like this in arapiles and grampians?

I've seen "watchtower crack", on arapiles, not so hard, but with 2 or 3 pitch, maybe there another like this?

On Grampians, Mont Rosa with "short multi-pitch" It is correct?

Thanks for help !
Yann
8/11/2009
1:12:51 AM
Passeport to Insanity is 28, Too hard for us... but wonderful crack (on picture)

I've found this:

"Where Angels Fear to Tread", in buffalo gorge. It mean a good routes, Somebody have some pictures of this routes? or feedback ?

I will take 2 or 3 days in buffalo finaly !

nmonteith
8/11/2009
8:20:50 AM
Here is some suggestions for single pitch routes that are major crack-lines. You can climb many of them without jamming as Arapiles has so many good face holds.

Arapiles

Mari (17) - corner crack
The Rack (18) - jam crack
Christian Crack (20) - facefinger crack
Wizard of Ice (20) - jam crack - tough!
Thunder Crack (20) - corner crack
Pebbles (22) - Finger crack
Bam Bam (20) - Finger crack
Karma Sutra (24) - Steep offwidth


Grampians

Mt Stapylton

Crossfire (18) - Corner finger crack
Simpleton (18) - Wide corner crack - 3 pitches!
Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant (23) - Flake crack

Summerday Valley

Walking on the Moon (18) - Undercling offwidth
21st Century Schizoid Man (21) - Desperate jam crack
Sharpville (19) - Finger crack

Hollow Mountain Area

Karmalites and Armalites (20) - Very steep hand crack
Filtons Folly (17) - Corner crack
Layback and Think of England (20) - Offwidth layback
Close to the Bone (23) - finger crack
Clicke Crack (19) - hand crack which widens to offwidth

Mt Difficult

Coupe de Grace (21) - steep big jam crack

Asses Ear

Triptych (22) - 3 pitches of finger crack

Black Ians Rocks has many excellent (short) cracks. I can't be bothered describing any.

Bundaleer has many excellent corner cracks - but you don't jam on any of them. They are really good trad climbs though. The same applies to Mt Rosea. No jamming.

Pastoral Buttress

Udder Shudder (19) - hand crack
Skirt Alert (18) - hand crack

There are good trad crack climbs without jamming at places like Gilhams Crags and Barbican Rocks as well. That list should keep you busy!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/11/2009
8:24:07 AM
Lots of stuff on Angels too.

I agree with NMcKinnon that Ben Lomond in Tasmania would interest you, and so too would Frog Buttress in Qld!
;-)

SteveC
8/11/2009
9:27:55 AM
a french crack climber? Vous devez Ítre de Canada?
WM
8/11/2009
11:14:44 AM
Pastoral Buttress near halls gap has some good cracks
tastybigmac
8/11/2009
6:48:42 PM
neil you forgot scorpion direct start and scorpion
Yann
9/11/2009
3:05:37 AM
Thanks Everybody !!!

Iot of Job !

Not From Canada, From france ("Lyon" not so far to Presles if you Know : -> http://www.promo-grimpe.com/html/presles.htm )

But it's more "limstone" (not shure it's the good word), so not lot of crack. But I like this and I want to progress.Far

See you !

Phil Box
9/11/2009
7:19:58 AM
Ooooh, I loved Scorpion, especially the airy start step across.

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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