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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
one rope rap (abseil).
widewetandslippery
3-Jun-2009
10:11:41 AM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8Ute5c2BVk

actually looks pretty good.

Cranky
3-Jun-2009
10:38:10 AM
Just dont stop on a small ledge halfway to undo a clusterf**k!

nmonteith
3-Jun-2009
11:03:52 AM
a bit like rapping with a loaded gun held to your head and the trigger wired to your hand.

MonkeyBoy
3-Jun-2009
11:47:45 AM
I don't speak Spanish so the whole way through I was like WTF are they doing - then at the end WOW, that's pretty intense. Often thought about this situation - Is there any other ways of retrieving ropes that are not like a loaded gun ?

OT


IdratherbeclimbingM9
3-Jun-2009
12:09:37 PM
Good find ww&s.

I can see that the shock cord makes it easier to retrieve, but depending on setup would think that rattling the rope would be sufficient to dislodge the fifi.
In fact I can envisage situations where the point of the fifi could contact rock and be levered out while under load ...

Still worth having it as another trick in the self-rescue bag of tricks, though I don't know of any other climbers (apart from myself!), who regularly free climb with a fifi and shock cord on their rack.

MB wrote;
>Is there any other ways of retrieving ropes that are not like a loaded gun ?
There are, but they all have their limitations. Some are more safety-iffy than others.
... am about to look for a link to one on Chocky back in 2005-ish? ...

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Post edit:
Bugger. My memory is fading, as the actual date was Sept 2004, heh, heh, heh.

Link is here. ~> follow the thread to find the link!
It was titled baurock.ru / lower-off techniq, but I think it originally came up on a USA website.

nmonteith
3-Jun-2009
12:15:18 PM
In my dim dark memory I'm sure i have broken a fifi hook in a very short aid fall many years ago. I can't remember the brand.

MonkeyBoy
3-Jun-2009
1:31:10 PM

>There are, but they all have their limitations. Some are more safety-iffy
>than others.
>... am about to look for a link to one on Chocky back in 2005-ish? ...
>

I wish I could read Russian, but the pictures tell most of the story there so Thanks M9.

Just watched the link above again - its kind of worse the second time as you know how precarious the anchor is as he is weighting it. SCARY


IdratherbeclimbingM9
3-Jun-2009
1:36:42 PM
On 3/06/2009 MonkeyBoy wrote:
>>Just watched the link above again - its kind of worse the second time
>as you know how precarious the anchor is as he is weighting it. SCARY

Body-weighting fifi's is standard aid climbing practise. It is only scary# if you move about enough* to cause it to detach ...


(*It takes a surprising amount of movement to do this if a floppy style of sling is used. In fact it can be hard to detach sometimes when you try!).

Abseiling is probably the single most dangerous activity within normally engaged climbing practice. This mostly due to lack of safety redundancy within systems used.
When you start down the 'single rope retrieval abseil' track, then you are reducing the redundancy even further ...

# I will admit though that hanging off an 'open' item is a mind-trip!
;-)

ecowain
3-Jun-2009
5:31:02 PM
Oooh and he's using one of rich carlsen's new totems too. Haven't seen any of them outside the US.

JamesMc
3-Jun-2009
9:59:09 PM
He was wearing a helmet so he obviousely isn't someone to take unnecessary risks. I'm sure it must be safe.

JamesMc

Macciza
3-Jun-2009
10:26:26 PM
hmmm - bit over engineered, I much prefer the old 'lay live line over the tail' method . . .
Kinda like the old lifting haul bags off the belay trick - Just not sure about all that extra technology . . .
But pretty cool - and that can be my excuse when I use bungy-cord for my chalkbag . . .
racingtadpole
3-Jun-2009
11:01:56 PM
hmm wearing a helmet but rapping off an open piece with nothing in the way of redundancy....go figure. Interesting technique but I dont think it'll be finding its way into my bag of tricks anytime soon
Tlockwood
3-Jun-2009
11:05:16 PM
worried about the fifi hitting him on the head upon releasing the rope?

hangdog
4-Jun-2009
10:31:12 AM
mmm!! When would you need this technique?? Hopefully never.

climbingfool
4-Jun-2009
10:57:05 AM
If you dont want to have another 60m lead line with you to do 60m raps, you can use 4-7mm line to pull the lead line when you have rapped it. i have a 4mm x 65 m line that fits in a 1 litre stuff sack that i have used for this purpose.

hang the stuff sack on harness and as you rap it feeds out. i dont reccomend tossing the 4mm down with the lead line. friend of mine did that once....once.
juanes
4-Jun-2009
11:07:01 AM
The notes and cometary; in the youtube video clearly state that this is a measure of last recourse. I imagine its for an occasion where you need the full length of the rope and need to continue rapping, and you have no other gear (options).

IMHO having the option of this rap technique and certain death. Then I would probably give this a shot before trying the death option. You have to manage your risk. I guess it all comes down to a little knowledge being bad and a lot of knowledge being better. I don't think any one with some rap experience is going to make this their default rap option.

There are 16 messages in this topic.

 

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