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General Climbing Discussion

Dodgey Bolts at MT KEIRA West Face
Uncle _Brendo
12:41:42 AM
G'day Guys.
I was climbing at Mt Keira on the weekend and found a SHEARED bolt on one of the routes called THE FIXER.
I downclimbed it and noticed that the first fixed hanger appeared to be on an expansion bolt. Maybe I'm just being paranoid about these in light or recent incidences, but I just wanted to let everyone know. I plan to head down there again soon and put a warning tag up.
Am I just being paranoid? Is someone currently re-bolting this area? Is there a good way to let everyone know?

7:51:40 AM
By sheared you mean the there was still a threaded bolt in the hole - but no hanger or nut? It sounds like someone has deliberately chopped it. It would be very hard to break an expansion bolt off unless it was a small diameter. By far the best warning is to install a sign on the route. You could also place a warning on the ACA database (you may need to enter that route though).
9:48:40 AM
Hey Hey,

Ahhh, Good Ol' Mount Keira and its dodgy bolting!
On The Fixer, If I remember correctly, there are only two FHs you can actually clip ( although I do recall seeing a chopped bolt ) on the whole climb ( one about 4-5m above the deck and one on the short headwall above the roof), despite being labeled a sport climb in the guide.When I was up there last with Olbert, he lead this climb with cams as well as the bolts. You can get a cam below the first bolt and a couple between the 2 bolts which made it a fairly safe lead.

But yeah, The Fixer isn't the only climb up there in need of some rebolting love!

10:01:13 AM
Is the 'current guide' still considered to be the one in the back half of the A5 sized Nowra guide from the mid 90s with Steve Bullen on the cover?
10:08:18 AM
There's one here:

11:21:14 AM
The Fixer only has a few bolts, that bolt was prob chopped cuz there is bomber cam placements under the roof. Its a mixed route not sports.

If your concerned about crappy old bolts, mt keira is prob not ur best option. There was some rebolting there a few years ago, but plenty of bolts are in their original state.

I dont think anyone would mind if things where rebolted. Maybe a good location for the bolting clinic that has been discussed on this forum. There is easy access to top of cliff, short distance to car park, and good bbq facilities for a feed and a few beers after the work has been completed.

11:27:48 AM
What's the official status of climbing there?

11:29:47 AM
that bolt has been chopped for ages. Since at least 2002 when i first climbed there
Uncle _Brendo
1:42:22 PM
It did look a bit like it had been chopped, but I'm not sure what with (it did not appear 'pinched' as if it
were cut with bolt cutters).
I'm also at a bit of a loss as to why, unless the bolt was dodgy and was cut off so that people didn't
use it. There is a good spot of a cam near the bolt but as I don't own any that wasn't much good.

The guide that I had was the one found at the link above.

Most of the bolts that I have used there looked pretty fresh. Does this place have a bit of a rep for
crap bolts?

The bolting clinic sounds unreal. I'd be well up for it. I'd feel a little safer knowing that the people that
were keen to bolt new routes could get the right training and do the job right.

If you hadn't guessed I'm pretty new to outdoor climbing. I have been a plastic pumper for a while but
finally got hooked on real rock. Sorry for al the dumb questions and bolt paranoia.

1:43:38 PM
Yup, the official guide is in the back of the A5 nowra one from early 90's.

When you get a good weekend, you'll often find a few people climbing at the main area on the West Face. Pretty sure there arn't any problems regarding access/bolting for the area.

Yeah, sounds like a good idea Bundy. There's heaps of stuff needing rebolting, and i'm sure anyone learning to place bolts can't put in worse bolts that what is already lots of rusty, bent carrots!
The local Climbing gym, Hangdog, has a rebolting fund going where they will match any money donated by climbers to rebolt nowra/Mt. K. Could be worth contacting them if bundy's idea goes ahead at K?

9:53:24 PM
Awwwww, we cant go rebolting good old Mt K. It would lose its charm...well....maybe not-but if it had any charm it would be lost!

Many of the old dodgy carrots at Mt K are on $#!t that nobody can understand why it was bolted in the first place. Most of the worthwhile routes are glued in carrots, fixed hangers or rings. There are probably one or two candidates, such as the fixer, that could do with the addition of one or two more bolts or maybe even the replacement of the carrots. There may be something to be said for the addition of lower offs instead of the glue in carrots that are there now, you either have to top belay or, god forbid, walk to the top to collect your gear!

There are 11 messages in this topic.


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