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General Climbing Discussion

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 35
Buffalo, too hot to handle??
11:15:28 AM
Thinking of heading up to Buffalo this weekend to go a-clambering. The only other time I've been there it snowed in November which was indeed purdy but resulted in not much climbing so I was wondering, even though it's going to be hot like fire down in Bright with 45 on Saturday, if it is likley to much more pleasant up on top of the hill. Am I just deluding myself? Is it markedly cooler? Too hot to attack the gorge?

12:15:13 PM
I have been at Buffalo when it has been 40 in Bright and only 30 on the mountain. We got up early and climbed in the morning and then came back for lunch, a nap and a dip in the lake until about 3ish and then headed out untill it was dark. We were able to get 8 to 10 routs done in a day in great conditions when everywhere else was baking.

Sure beats araps at this time of year.

Go to Buffalo you will not regret it!!

12:20:18 PM
It is a lottery.

As a generalisation, you can knock 10 to 15 degrees off the valley temperatures up there; especially if the wind is from the SW-SE quadrant.

With the strong NW winds predicted for Saturday, there is every chance that temps up there will be similar to the valley, though Sunday will likely be good up there.

>Too hot to attack the gorge?

I wouldn't choose to be doing Angels or a long multipitch on the Nth Wall in Saturdays predicted weather. You could probably get away with a windy ascent of the shorter stuff around the rim though.
12:49:29 PM
Thanks, that's decision made and Buffalo it is.

12:59:09 PM
Stay away from friction slabs. They are terrible in the heat. Stick with places like Dreamworld up right near the summit.
3:26:25 PM
yep dreamworld main face gets morning shade and has positive holds. no claiming the tick without topping out though (like certain recent efforts)

for arvo shade try Sultan and the slabs on the left (the latter being easily toproped)

these areas are a couple of hundred metres higher altitude than the Gorge and get more wind - ie much cooler than the gorge.

If you must hit the gorge try defender LHF and bannister's rush - 1 pitch rap-in classics on the top of the north wall (ie airy and shady all day)
3:34:50 PM
Thanks Will, and thanks for reminding me of my inability to seal the deal at the end of routes (note: not roots, though current form might suggest the same problem there too), now I just have to ask Zeus to protect me from fires and all will be well.

12:52:30 AM
we've called off our trip, there are fires nearby and it's gonna be windy.

4:40:49 AM
Fire is titled the Buckland Gap fire (in Beechworth-Myrtleford area) and at 3 AM this morning radio was warning Mudgegonga, Stanley and Bruarong residents to be prepared for ember attack likely at that time and the radio updates till now have not changed. It is currently very active and pushing south-east strongly, starting spot fires up to 6km ahead of itself. Buffalo could indeed become too hot to handle yet again, with recent fires in 2002/3 and 2006.
Nth and Wst containment lines are still being put in as I type.
Dederang is on high alert for when the wind changes direction with the cooler change front that is expected, but has not come through yet.
My normal view of Buffalo now has flashing blue/red lights in the foreground, and an obscene orange glow* rising above the ridgelines to the base of the pyrocumulus clouds above.
(*In fact it seems to be the whole southern skyline from Wangaratta through to Bright quadrant).

My condolences go out to the relatives of the 14 known deceased, and that figure is expected to rise to 40+ with further reports on radio (now), of additional known deaths in Bendigo area (that were not in the original 40 + calculation), due the fires in more southern parts of Vic.

...Probably can't expect anything less from a week over 40 degrees, with 46 today and wind gusts to 50 kph.
Was initially going climbing with gordoste & co, but am now on firewatch due living out of town in a tinder dry (at present) valley; ~> am still adding finishing touches to my fire prep in anticipation of the power going off (as is the case in Beechworth at the moment).

5:00:09 AM
Things are sounding desperate down there Rod. The cold front is heading across, but the weather is always hottest and windiest before the front hits. Staying at home sounds like a real good option.

I get the feeling that today is going to be worse than yesterday.

5:05:14 AM
Though the weather forecast says that the front should move through your area Sunday morning, so with any luck maybe some rain and a wind direction change by lunchtime. Watch out for that wind change though, if you can see fire to the southwest of where you are, the wind change after the cold front (to a south wester) may push the fire towards you.

5:21:07 AM
Updates are being made to the CFA website as soon as they have new info:

Listen to ABC Newsradio - they've gone into fire info mode. They said that if you have not heard an update on a fire for a while it's becuase the status hasn't changed.

That's a fricken big fire at Beechworth - 20,000 hectares. Link to the CFA info about it (including a PDF map that shows the extent of the fire).

Watch that wind change Rod, Yakandandah is right in the firing line if a strong / dry southwest change comes through.

5:41:09 AM
It looks like the cold front has already passed over Kilmore Gap area but hasn't quite made Eildon. You guys in the north east should get the front early-ish in the morning.
tas alex
12:45:10 PM
we were up on the mountain this morning( in the gorge) and had to walk out as the park has been evacuated. so obviously, it is too hot to handle. a fair bit of our gear is at the bottom of ozy so will hopefully get up there when it opens up again
1:00:26 PM
>...Probably can't expect anything less from a week over 40 degrees, with
>46 today and wind gusts to 50 kph.

we are near shepparton and i have never seen such oppressive heat and danger . 4.00pm was 46 when i went to get the cows who were all heat stressed the wind was probably 50 to 60 kmph with gusts to 70 or 80 . Even though we have little grass cover i cant see how anyone could stop a fire if one got going here let alone in timber or steep terrain. Interesting how the really heat stressed bird around the water troughs were the starlings and indian mynahs whereas the red rump parrots seemed quite chirpy and their normal energetic selves. Just heard weregoing to power shed by powercorp by rptation for an hour or so during to problems with the snowy melbourne line wtih fires
2:05:08 PM
i was gunna head down to buffalo tommorrow, with the intention of starting on the wall on tuesday, But by the looks of things that wont be happening

2:12:30 PM
Brendan, IMHO don't go near the place. The fire has just changed direction - they say that Beechworth is being threatened so there is a good chance the highway may close, and lots of local roads are getting closed off. We these conditions the fires could end up all over the shop. With these sort of conditions a new fire could start anywhere on the way to Buffalo.

In fact, the Beechworth fire heading in the direction of Wodonga - only 30km away.

BTW - anyone heard from M9 ? He seemed pretty worked up early this morning about their situation in Yackandanda. The Beechworth fire is only 14km from Yack and could head in that direction.
2:27:24 PM
yeah i am gunna stay put in canberra for a couple of days

2:31:30 PM
The Beechworth fire is burning in a south easterly direction and is estimated to be more
than 20,000 hectares in size.

Fire activity has decreased allowing crews to make good progress on control lines.

The communities of Bruarong, Glen Creek, Dederang, Running Creek, Myrtleford,
Ovens, Barwidgee Creek are no longer under direct threat from this fire, but still need to
remain alert due to a high level of fire activity still in the area.

These communities may come under new attack tomorrow as weather conditions

Stanley, Mudgeegonga, Rosewhite, Kancoona and Kancoona South remain under threat
with CFA strike-teams continuing to work on asset protection.
taken from

2:59:54 PM
Beechworth fire has just had another wind shift - to the southwest now. They are still on high alert.

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There are 35 messages in this topic.


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