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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Removing the "glue" hold on Punks in the Gym
Wattie
1/10/2008
4:38:52 AM
We were discussing the colourful history of Punks and how the glue hold came into being. With the strict rules of the area should we as a climbing community, proud of its claim to have the first 32 in the world remove the glue and bring it back to the way it was when the first ascent was done in 1985 by Güllich. It is a mystery and very difficult to believe that the claim of "the hold crumbled away" was excepted. Why was a new, completely different hold created to replace a somewhat pretty solid piece of fine sandstone? I would say that those whom have done the climb since the addition of the glue can not claim a true ascent. When it was done with the UIAA grade of 10+ was given (32) now it is consider only 31. Should we remove the glue and let those who are strong enough truly climb punks in the Gym?

muki
1/10/2008
5:48:07 AM
Maybe a bit more research by you will uncover the true story of the glued on hold.
I suggest you actually talk to someone who has done the climb before talking about re-removing the
glued on hold, just my 2 cents here as I have not done the climb, but know at least 3 people who have,
and have talked with them regarding the hold that was pulled off, and replacement of that piece of rock.
Lee C
1/10/2008
8:11:03 AM
You'll only need to go as far as reading the guidebook, wattie?, to learn a little more about the history of
that hold and why it may have needed glue.
hipster
1/10/2008
8:32:45 AM
I'm with you wattie..I can see it now...an angry mob masses in the carpark near the superman boulder. There's pitchforks, megaphones and placards like "No more glue" and "Save Punks". Some Nati locals bring their kids along so it looks good for TV. We all march up to the base of Punks, waving and yelling and chanting. There's a pre-placed static line so you, our leader, can jug up and ceremoniously smash off the said glued hold. The crowd goes nuts. The world is saved....

Straight out of the Simpsons bro!!
hipster
1/10/2008
8:35:32 AM
Doh!! I now see the flaw in my plan....
Some Pines Plaza fiend would have removed the pre-placed static as booty.

The good Dr
1/10/2008
9:08:31 AM
I hear that Wattie and his gang will practice on all the chipped and glued routes in the blueys and Nowra first. This will give everyone quite a few years to get ready for their arrival at Arapiles.
Dave J
1/10/2008
9:52:05 AM
>There's pitchforks, megaphones and placards
>like "No more glue" and "Save Punks".

I think the "No more glue" and "Save Punks" placards would be getting waved around people on opposing
sides of the argument. "Erase Punks" might work better if you just wanted one angry mob.

rodw
1/10/2008
11:06:08 AM
On 1/10/2008 hipster wrote:
>Doh!! I now see the flaw in my plan....
> Some Pines Plaza fiend would have removed the pre-placed static as booty.

Thats easy fixed....just install a bolt ladder up to the offending hold, so the angry mob plans wont be thwarted by booty claiming rat bags.
duglash
1/10/2008
11:29:57 AM
Maybe the glue could be recycled to fill in London Calling, Cecil B de Mille, Cuddly Fat, Hit the Deck, Steps
Ahead, Free Fingers.. hm, we might need a bit extra.

cruxmag
1/10/2008
12:56:35 PM
On 1/10/2008 duglash wrote:
>Maybe the glue could be recycled to fill in London Calling, Cecil B de
>Mille, Cuddly Fat, Hit the Deck, Steps
>Ahead, Free Fingers.. hm, we might need a bit extra.

Save a few extra litres of glue for the sydney sea cliffs.
widewetandslippery
1/10/2008
1:58:36 PM
Photo of chipped route in "Rock" in the newsagent today! What next? photos of Punks? Oh thats right they've had pictures of Punks in there before.

Rock not only condones but celebrates chipping. The way forward! Bring back Bernie Crawley.

oweng
1/10/2008
2:12:42 PM
Ah 'The Hole' at Norton Summit. From my visit there a few years ago, I now know what goes through the mind of an unsuspecting pedestrian with Godzilla looming above them. A kind of gut wrenching mixture of awe and disgusted horror.

Chuck Norris
1/10/2008
9:56:29 PM
On 1/10/2008 oweng wrote:
>Ah 'The Hole' at Norton Summit. From my visit there a few years ago, I
>now know what goes through the mind of an unsuspecting pedestrian with
>Godzilla looming above them. A kind of gut wrenching mixture of awe and
>disgusted horror.

You dissin da Hole?!
wattie
2/10/2008
7:39:08 PM
I like you"re idea there Hipster, maybe we could have some fireworks and a brass band at the moment the hammer strikes the glue, and we can sell the rights the channel 9 for a couple of mil.
But in all seriousness, the question that came up from our original discussion was how certain we can be certain that the original hold is completely gone. There is no way in hell that the lump of glue there now is anything like the original not only have I seen that bad boy, but I've seen the picture of wolfgang holding the original and its looks nothing like it. In fact the original from what I can ascertain from said classic picture (complete with short shorts and porn mo) the hold looks like a small possibly flat crimp on top of a bum type formation, not something that would break easily especially given that it is bullet hard sandstone quartzose.
So we have 3 scenarios:
1)The original broke completely and we'll have to make do with the glue
2) the original broke partially but could be climbed in its original form after removal of the glue
3) The original is still there and never broke at all and in fact the glue was just Pollit's legacy to Australian climbing.
Given scenarios 2 or 3, would it not be better to have the route in "natural" unadulterated form? Rather than using what is basically a point of aid.
Lee C
2/10/2008
8:28:19 PM
You do know that the "said" hold was originally chipped by Martin Scheel? and certainly would not have
been a "bullet hard sandstone quartzite bum formation."

wattie
2/10/2008
9:24:09 PM
Ah yes, there is that small detail. If that's the case then I rest my argument, but there has been doubt cast over whether the hold was actually chipped in the first place. Some argue that Scheel had strict ethics and would not do such a thing.
dalai
2/10/2008
9:49:48 PM
On 2/10/2008 wattie wrote:
>Ah yes, there is that small detail. If that's the case then I rest my
>argument, but there has been doubt cast over whether the hold was actually
>chipped in the first place. Some argue that Scheel had strict ethics and
>would not do such a thing.

Yes, he wasn't chipping, just giving the wall a particularly thorough cleaning. So thorough in fact it is only one of quite a few 'cleaned' holds on that climb...

The risk of removing the 'bird bath' could result in an even bigger mess!
dalai
2/10/2008
9:50:41 PM
On 1/10/2008 oweng wrote:
>Ah 'The Hole' at Norton Summit. From my visit there a few years ago, I
>now know what goes through the mind of an unsuspecting pedestrian with
>Godzilla looming above them. A kind of gut wrenching mixture of awe and
>disgusted horror.

It's a chipped quarry... and a good training venue!
richardo
4/10/2008
12:52:42 AM
Hello

I am curious. If anyone who has climbed this climb of Punks thinks it has been chipped or has got a
photograph of a chipping then plaese post it.





Sabu
4/10/2008
9:45:40 AM
On 4/10/2008 richardo wrote:
>Hello
>
>I am curious. If anyone who has climbed this climb of Punks thinks it
>has been chipped or has got a
>photograph of a chipping then plaese post it.

.... you're kidding right?

There are 20 messages in this topic.

 

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