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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Sharma completes Clark Mountain project
Dave C
12/09/2008
9:56:59 PM
All over the internet at the moment:

http://www.bigupproductions.com/#/blog/396/

An extraordinary route!

tmarsh
14/09/2008
3:26:00 PM
Wow. 75 meter route, one single pitch, and it goes all the way to the top of the cliff. Impressive.

seppo
14/09/2008
5:30:33 PM
man that thing is absolutely rediculous. saw it in king lines....what a friggin machine
rod
15/09/2008
12:11:38 AM
Top stuff, has he done anything on grit?
Dave C
15/09/2008
7:38:04 AM
It now has a name and a grade:
Jumbo Love, 5.15b (F9b) - I reckon that makes it about 37 in Oz language then?

Sabu
15/09/2008
10:27:49 AM
Is that the world's hardest then? I thought it was 36 before that.

A very impressive route nevertheless!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/09/2008
12:15:50 PM
On 15/09/2008 Sabu wrote:
>Is that the world's hardest then?

Selective quotes from the Jumbo Love link (off the original link in initial post).

The pitch is 250 feet (76.2 metres) long and nearly 45 degrees overhanging most of the way.

So while it's hard to say definitively whether Jumbo Love is THE hardest route, I think it's a safe statement to call it the new benchmark for 9b, which at the moment is the hardest consensus grade. It's the most impressive thing seen in sportclimbing, and I think over time it will stand, along with Action Directe, and Realization, as one of the iconic accomplishments in the progression of our sport.


Way impressive achievement. Well done Chris Sharma & whoever his patient belayer was!



IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/09/2008
12:17:20 PM
Due the slightly negative tone of this post I have separated it from the positive achievment post above ...

Interesting the way bigupproductions writes up the wider scenario surrounding the climb access etc.
Quote;
the inconvenience of it. Clark is in the middle of a desert wasteland, near Primm, NV. You have to drive over an hour up a horrendous 4WD road, then hike at least another hour in the blazing sun straight up the mountain.
... with accompanying pictures of overheated 4wd and a rattlesnake that was on the trail.

The lads should try Oz sometime if they want a true bush adventure(!)
Their horrendous 4wd road equates to our normal (fire-trail standard) bush tracks, before we go off-road to 4wd! and our snakes don't give warning of their presence; ... as well as being a lot more venomous!
:)
onsight
15/09/2008
1:02:35 PM
On 15/09/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>The lads should try Oz sometime if they want a true bush adventure(!)

Not sure I'd be looking for a true bush adventure if I was also looking for a really hard route to climb...

Awesome achievement by Chris. Looks like his time in Spain has paid off. Certainly sounds like this will become the new benchmark.
dalai
15/09/2008
1:32:34 PM
Great news! Look forward to the footage when released.

As to the hardest route, not sure if ever confirmed/disproved but Chilam Balam was given 9b+?

Edit: some more details from ukclimbing

"Jumbo Love starts with 60ft of 7c, then kicks back to 50 degrees and bouldery 8c+ climbing for a 100ft or so, then get's really hard to easier 8a+/b climbing right to the top of the cliff. Sharma took 100ft falls, as clipping bolts is nigh on impossible as the climbing is so hard, there is one jug on the route."
onsight
15/09/2008
1:49:24 PM
On 15/09/2008 dalai wrote:
>As to the hardest route, not sure if ever confirmed/disproved but Chilam
>Balam was given 9b+?

Still clouded in controversy I think. I heard Chris has put a fair bit of time in on that route so could be interesting to hear his thoughts on it...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
15/09/2008
2:14:36 PM
On 15/09/2008 onsight wrote:
>Not sure I'd be looking for a true bush adventure if I was also looking
>for a really hard route to climb...

If some were to nearly step on a Brown Snake at the base of Taipan I reckon it'd help them get up a few moves they couldn't do otherwise, heh, heh, heh.
dalai
18/09/2008
10:53:05 PM
If you can't wait for footage of the send, http://www.momentumvm.com have recently opened up the video archive to all to view for free (they went membership a while back) and have one of Graham and Pringle working this route last year - look in Issue #10...

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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