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General Climbing Discussion

Mirrorball anchor

1:47:25 PM
I was at Pierces Pass recently and noticed that numerous trees (all Casurinas) had recently departed from the 1/2 way ledge - probably related to recent heavy rain. One in particular was but a few meters from, and considerably larger than, the designated anchor (tree looped by chain) which drops you to the top of Mirrorball pinnacle. The freshly uprooted specimens reveal disturbingly shallow root systems. It gave us the heebies but we used said anchor anyway. Canít help but think that this tree (which is heavily used) may to do a number on someone in the not-too-distant future. Just wondering if anyone knows if plans are afoot to install some sort of replacement rap-anchor chained to the main wall?

2:16:06 PM
isnt there two bolts on the massive boulder just to the left (looking out) of the tree which form the anchors for AotWWW? its been a few years since i was there but thought there were some.

2:26:29 PM
I think those bolts would be hard to pull rap ropes through Steve. The tree rap is potentially dodgy though, not least because the chain is quite high up the trunk giving added leverage on the root system.

From memory, bolts back on the main wall would need to be quite high to enable rap ropes to be pulled.

I'm sure Mikl will read this and have an idea for a solution.

3:39:30 PM
I think we used those bolts on the boulder (on the overhalfway ledge) and rapped down the large face to the climber's right of the WFOTMB pinnacle. From memory most of the last rap was free hanging. The rope pull wasn't a problem and we were using 2 reasonably fat singles.

8:10:19 PM
On 11/03/2008 tnd wrote:
>I'm sure Mikl will read this and have an idea for a solution.

Another interesting use for blue-tack, perhaps, in some sort of deposition process . . . i think . . .
8:28:35 PM
The only rings that i know of are the ones above the burgermeister arete. they're pretty dodgy getting to, though, and they're quite far back from the lip. from memory the edge that the ropes run over from them id also quite have to tie an overhand knot for it to slide over when you pull them.
other than those rings i can only think of the chain around the tree.....

10:05:27 PM
Eeek! I had an epic once on that rap after getting the ropes stuck when we were both dangling at the hanging belay.
mikl law
12:12:26 PM
On 11/03/2008 langles wrote:
>I Just
>wondering if anyone knows if plans are afoot to install some sort of replacement
>rap-anchor chained to the main wall?

I think langles just volunteered. Congratulations!
Put the anchor on the ledge 8m lower that you can scramble down to and over to the right, then put the next set on a small ledge out to the right of the pinnacle (so there is a seperate abseil line to the right of the normal one, either slightly above or about 10m lower than the current rap station in the notch, check that you can get to the deck on 50m ropes from here).


8:46:44 PM
On 12/03/2008 mikl law wrote:

>Put the anchor . . . blah blah blah

I really hoped you'd consider the bluetack deposition layer to solidify the tree . . . oh well . . .
Shirt's not working - Was at Blackheath today - no one said a word . . .

12:16:38 PM
>I think langles just volunteered. Congratulations!


Fair enough. I'll cover the cost of the bits'n pieces, but I'll need help from an experienced hand (with drill etc) - having not dabbled in this sort of thing before.
Important it gets done right. Any takers?
mikl law
12:27:33 PM
The cost is minimal (about $4 plus petrol) , the time is the issue.
I made a provocative reply to your email as people think i like bolting, I have actually been thinking of adding a seperate rap line to reduce traffic jams here.
If you want to come out, I'll help you place the bolts, and then we could do a route to get out.

1:08:36 PM
Sounds like a plan.
My people will contact your people

There are 12 messages in this topic.


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