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World's Hardest Sport Climb

tankywalrus

18-Jan-2008
9:04:35 PM

Hello fellow Chockstonerers,

Before this ignites World War III, may I pose a question to you. After doing some research, I cannot find a definitive statement of what officially is the world's hardest sport climb. No, not Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody, I'm talking sport climb. I've just been out of climbing for 4-5 months due to injury and I'm looking for something to inspire me. I know there are plenty other sources of inspiration, but I'd just like to know what is the climb with the hardest individual move/sequence of moves.

Many thanks,

Will

Let the melee begin.... :P

alrob

18-Jan-2008
9:36:18 PM

ali hulk linkup. 9b (37). Dani Andrada 2007

climber72

18-Jan-2008
9:56:51 PM

La Rambla in Spain - 5.15a (36). Sounds pretty hard.

muki

18-Jan-2008
10:34:50 PM

The Chris Sharma "dyno route" can't remember the name same cliff as Realization.

gordoste

18-Jan-2008
11:03:10 PM

akira by fred rouhling for sure

maxdacat

18-Jan-2008
11:36:15 PM

some of the Spanish routes tend to be long endurance affairs so might still warrant a high grade but might not have ther hardest moves per se.....would be nice if some of the longer climbs could be given a secondary grade in brackets to denote the hardest move eg 9b (8b) which is what i would suspect.

anyway another contender might be Steve McClure's new route at Malham Overhsadow, tentatively graded 9a+:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=474

probably the hardest in Britain and they tend to undergrade there. Unlikely to get a repeat anytime soon esp. by any overseas visitors mainly due to the unappealing english weather.

Lee C

19-Jan-2008
7:51:55 AM

A few years ago a guy graded a route somewhere in southern spain 9b/37. Barnabe Fernandez and the
route was Chilam Bilam.

tankywalrus

19-Jan-2008
1:11:14 PM

Cheers guys....lots of different climbs there...another quick question if that's alright: what's the hardest grade in Aus, 34 or 35? I think it's 34, Mechanical Animals?

Edit: I have just realised something: I spelt the topic's name wrong! So sorry, it should have an apostrophe. I'm an English nut, you see, so I'm terribly sorry for that!

IdratherbeclimbingM9

19-Jan-2008
6:45:55 PM

On 19/01/2008 tankywalrus wrote:
>Edit: I have just realised something: I spelt the topic's name wrong!
>So sorry, it should have an apostrophe. I'm an English nut, you see, so
>I'm terribly sorry for that!

You can always fix it by editing your 1st post which will allow you to access the heading also.
:)

mousey

20-Jan-2008
8:24:54 PM

mechanical animals was confirmed at 33 by repeat ascensionists, though there are a few 34's floating about... lee c's sneaky old fox at diamond falls?, white ladder at nowra, motor pussy?, one on one (garth's route at mini haha) etc

tankywalrus

21-Jan-2008
9:51:32 AM

Oh ok cool. Sounds good!

The Trickster

22-Jan-2008
9:56:13 PM

On 18/01/2008 bomber pro wrote:
>The Chris Sharma "dyno route" can't remember the name same cliff as Realization.

Three Degrees of Separation, 5.14d, Ceuse, France

Saw a sequence of Ethan Pringle in Urban Climber Mag, doing the dyno. It looks totally sick!

Safer Cliffs Vic

22-Jan-2008
11:03:57 PM

On 19/01/2008 tankywalrus wrote:
>Cheers guys....lots of different climbs there...another quick question
>if that's alright: what's the hardest grade in Aus, 34 or 35? I think it's
>34, Mechanical Animals?

I though White Ladder (aka Attack Mode extension) was the hardest route in Oz? Thats what the recent Rock mag seemed to say...

penguinator

23-Jan-2008
2:01:18 PM

The marketing pitch for the FiveTen VCS is:

"The only shoe to climb 5.15". What one was that?

Stuey

23-Jan-2008
2:54:29 PM

On 23/01/2008 penguinator wrote:

>"The only shoe to climb 5.15". What one was that?

It was when Sharma was still sponsored by 5.10 and had just done Realisation wearing a pair. Things have changed a bit since then.

wallwombat

23-Jan-2008
4:34:41 PM

I think the full La Rambla extension is rated 5.15 as well.

There are 16 messages in this topic.