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sport routes near melbourne

sju

12-Dec-2003
10:03:32 PM

i'm visiting your fair land for the first time next week and will be based in melbourne, mad keen on doing a bit of climbing but to keep the weight down i'll skip the trad, lead rack. So! wheres the best place for a shaven heided pale faced scotsman who's looking forward to more than 7hrs daylight a day and temperatures above freezing for some sport climbing action, grades 15-22(I think?).p.s. please tell me it won't be too hot!

Robin

13-Dec-2003
8:23:11 AM

There aren't that many sports routes around Melbourne. There are a couple of climbs at Camels Hump and Weribee gorge but you would still need a set of wires and some medium cams/hexes to get up most of the climbs.

Better sports climbing can be found in the Grampians, approx 2.5-3 hour drive from Melbourne. Neil has done a Sports Climbing Guide for the Grampians: see http://www.chockstone.org/Grampians/Sport/Grampians_sport.html

Also if you don't have a rack perhaps you could lodge a post under 'Find a Climber' and you might be able to link up with someone with a rack.

Don't worry about the weather, it's never too hot to climb. Just pick a shady side of the cliff if it's over 30 degrees C. We worry more about the cold/wet over here.

Robin

joemor

13-Dec-2003
9:54:55 AM

The other problem u may incounter is that "most " sport routes start at around grade 22......

sju

13-Dec-2003
10:02:49 PM

thanks guys, I have a rack but was hoping to keep luggage to a minimum, might just go for top roping option or sneekily empty my girlfriends case of health and beauty products for a set of wires and cams (ha!) i'm sure she"ll be thrilled.

nmonteith

15-Dec-2003
9:32:28 AM

Camels Hump is definatly the place to go if you want a day trip. Pocketed volcanoc rock with good bolts and a really nice location and scenery. Easy to set-up topropes as well.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-Dec-2003
3:59:03 PM

On 12/12/2003 scotsman wrote:
>p.s. please tell me it won't be too hot!
It won't be too hot.
(Compared to a Scottish winter it will be blerrie scorching)!

Mt Buffalo is the go ... (& should have temperatures in the mid 20's), but its about 4 hours from Melbourne.

BenHev

15-Dec-2003
7:30:59 PM

If you're looking at bolted climbs remember to check for 'ring' or 'fixed hanger'. Lots of bolts are just that, machine bolts (carrots), you have to provide the hanger. The keyhole hangers required are AUD$6 or so. You could use a wire to sling it... if you had them.

climbingjac

16-Dec-2003
8:56:25 AM

Um.... I'm not a fan of encouraging people to turn up at a crag with the intention of leading a route by putting wires on carrots. It can be a dangerous practise that is normally only indulged in when you're actually on a route and are caught out without a hanger. Even then, you would only use this practise on ONE bolt... not an entire route worth of them! Hangers don't cost much in the grand scheme of things. I suggest acquiring a few before you get here (or buy some when you get here)...

Apart from that, I suggest heading to one of the climbing gyms to meet people that have cars that might invite you to the Grampians, where there is plenty of sport climbing for budding weekend warriors. Victoria Ranges Indoor Rock Climbing Centre is located at 40 Mt Alexander Rd, Flemington. It's accessed by taking tram #57 from Elizabeth Street (this street is in the CBD of Melbourne itself).

Happy holidaying
jac

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