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What are your favourite climbs in Vic?
6:20:33 PM
I thought that this may give some people some new ideas as to climbs they would like to do. So here is the question. What are your 3 most favourite climbs in Vic? What are the grades and style of climbing and why are they your favorite climbs?

My favorites are:

Fortress at Araps, grade 26 mixed climb on mildly over hanging wall. I like the movement, some long moves, some slopers and a bit of grunt at the end.

Tony's route at Araps, grade 19 trad. Awsome first pitch that keeps on going and good gear if you are confident with placing. It start on an overhanging corner that really makes you think, then a little face and finishes the first pitch through some little rooflets that are a lot of fun.

Diazapam at The Gramps, grade 25 sport. A route that keeps you on the edge of your seat the whole way. Crimpy face climbing with a killer second crux when your pumped out of your mind. There is a big space between the last and second last bolt which adds to the thrill.

I'm particularly interested in hearing other peoples favourite climbs in the 18 to 26 grade range.

9:45:11 PM
This is pretty hard to do, but here goes. Also, i would probably give 3 different routes if you were to ask me again tomorrow..... :)

Weaveworld (23) *** at the Gallery. A bouldery start leads through a rising traverse on monster jugs. A few hards moves puts you on an exposed face for a traverse on smaller holds. A good rest the and AMAZING finish up the overhanging arete with a great view and some unreal exposure.

Terminal Insomnia (22) *** at VD land. Follows a black steak of big heuco's up an impresive wall. Some longish moves and a great runout finish.

XI (18) Mt Arapilies *** A great route up an imposing wall. Good, but spaced pro with some awesome moves. Must do!

Note: For Monty, i would be tempted to put your spinal tap (23) in my list if it wasnt for the ledge behind. I loved that route. Would be mega classic 3 stars without the ledge.

9:07:39 AM
18 to 26 eh.... well that knocks out a lot of the fun easy routes but okay..

*** Tannin (19) 40m, Araps - Well protected and containing nice stances from which to place and rest, though it does still get a bit pumpy. Perfect intro to the grade. Just remember to stay left after pulling the little right traverse / rooflet crux.

*** Eurydice (18) 100m, Araps - 2 pitches of well protected and fairly consistent climbing, though you can spot the crux sections by the fixed junk. Very enjoyable.

** Golden Showers & Group Sex (20) 21m, Gramps - A short but entertaining route over mixed trad and bolts. Puts you on top of the scenic Hollow Mt block with a great excuse to "go stare at Taipan" and dream.

10:03:43 AM
Bit hard to name the absolute favourites but here are some very memorable climbs:

Diane (19?), Rosea - Climbing at Rosea is always a great experience. Diane is a beautiful route that shoots straight up through 4 pitches of really enjoyable climbing.

The Navigator (21), Stapylton - Mostly goes at grade 19 apart from a bouldery crux at the start of the second pitch. Includes slab climbing, bouldering, a roof, a hand traverse and an overhanging crack all in the one climb.

Twentieth Century Fox (20), Mount Fox - Another great mix-up of bridging, crack climbing, a beautiful rising traverse and a slab to finish. All in the one pitch!

1:28:15 PM
I'm going to name a couple of easier routes for the more bumblyafied of us out there.
These climbs are the ones that stick in my mind as great adventures.

1) Brolga (16) Araps. Classic slab with funky gear and enough spice to make you think twice.
2) The Pintle (16) (variant second pitch) The Horn, Mt Buffalo. Varying crack techniques required with good gear (Try a skyhook on the variant second pitch?) and in a great location.
3) Phoenix (11) Araps. Great corner line with some cool moves. Great for a cruisy arvo at the "PILES".

I haven't climbed that much in Vic yet so this list is bound to vary over the coming years.
2:48:04 PM
I am also going to add some easier routes.

1) Sword in the Stone, grade 17 at mount difficult (loved the exposure)
2) Missing link, grade 17 at Araps (just did it last weekend)
3) Judgement day, grade 19 at Araps (loved the delicate moves at the end of the second pitch)

3:35:36 PM
On 5/12/2003 G wrote:
>3) Judgement day, grade 19 at Araps (loved the delicate moves at the end
>of the second pitch)

Not a fan of leading long traverses anymore. Those P2 delicate finish moves were pretty darn scary I thought. Put me off the whole climb. Ended up yarding off a No1 RP to reach some sloper slide pull thing while the next piece back was some bent over rusted carrot or poor cam I forget which... I just remember thinking "I'm gonna pendulm into that arete any second now". Bailed off some nice rings above and didn't begin pitch three. Afterwards we wondered if we'd gotten off route since a line of chalk also traversed higher. Anyway, I can't say I enjoyed it.
4:04:29 PM
Inquisiton (14) at Wabbit Wocks (just wish it was longer)
All along the Watchtower (21), seconded Neil up it, must lead next time
Stentor (16) at Arapiles, great fun, gymnastic trad route, but again a bit short

The Blond Gecko
4:42:07 PM
On 5/12/2003 Mike wrote:
>now". Bailed off some nice rings above and didn't begin pitch three.

You missed the best bit - pitch 3 is an absolute ripper! I remember getting a bit scared and runout on the second pitch, too - I've never been quite so happy to see an offwidth in my life!

Anyway, my picks would be:

Eurydice (18) - Araps
Auto da Fe (20/21) - Araps (especially the lovely thin, runout slab first pitch)
Lemmington (19) - Araps - complete with nut-eating crack. (can anyone figure out the story behind the little rodent graveyard in the cave on this?)
5:37:11 PM
I just did lemmigton on the weekend also and thought it was a great climb too (though not in my top 3). Where is the rodent graveyard?
11:48:57 PM
Depends on the definition of favourite. If favourite means climbs that that are good enough to do time and time again then my three would be Blimp, Eurydice, Sultan. If favourite means most memorable/challenging etc then my three would be Technical Ectasy, The Ascention and Auto De Fe.

12:25:41 AM
Araps: Skink, Eurydice + all the great bouldering

Buffalo: Bannana Blase (16), Home James (19), The Pintle (16), Sultan (20), Maharajah Flake Start (17) + the milkshakes at the Chalet!

Gramps: (god how do you choose?!) Texas Radio and the Big Beats (17), Soweto (21),

Mt Stanley: Talon (16)

Mt Pilot: Beechworth Bakery (21)

Wilsons Prom: All the bouldering at Squeaky Beach...fantastic!
11:10:42 PM
On 5/12/2003 dodgy wrote:
>Stentor (16) at Arapiles, great fun, gymnastic trad route, but again a
>bit short
Stentor was originally 18 and started from the ground just left of Decibel. The first pitch (crux) is run-out on small RPs and the short, easy second pitch lands you at the foot of the climb described in the selected guide. The first pitch is really good but it was led by Keith Egerton and you wouldn't want to fall on it.

The Blond Gecko
10:53:16 AM
The little graveyard is in a cave behind the layback flake at the bottom. I even got my second to take a picture of it (she thought I was a little bit strange after that...). It seemed to go back quite a bit further than the picture shows, though.

10:58:23 AM
auto da fe 21, fly lichen eagle 20, twentieth century fox 20
what can i say i must like the slabs!
10:44:21 PM
Rich, you've led the crux of "Fly Lichen Eagle"? I dip my lid to you. I wouldn't lead that for anything.

9:33:57 AM
World Party, third pitch (24).

Best 24 I've seen. Outrageous position, interesting climbing and sublime rock. Check Simon Carter's photo for inspiration here ...

Big roof to start, tricky pull around the lip, then up the most beautiful scoop on one side until it rounds out, at which point it just happens to narrow enough to bridge between it. Then the route eases back (still slightly overhung) and it's a little goey to the top. I ended up so pumped I literally had to dyno to a wrist-rap on the chickenheads while facing a monster fall. You'll never forget this experience.

Dog your way through pitch two (soft 27) if necessary to get there, it's worth it.

10:57:40 AM
cheers kieran!
it was a while ago i did it but i do remember it being a bit airy just after the 1st belay and a major runout at the start.. great climb tho, really nice position
mikl law
12:25:48 PM
World Party pitch 3
It's a bit naughty to do a hanging belay halfway up that isn't it?, best done an a pumpy finsh to pitch 2.

12:41:32 PM
More on World Party ...

Yup indeed. Can't climb over the belay though, you have to climb around the right hand side and up on some beautiful (deep) pockets. There's a no hander in the start of the roof anyway so it's not that big a deal.

If you do it in 2 pitches, the 2nd pitch is 3 star 27.

(There's a better way again, but I'm not telling)

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