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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

grip training
7:57:16 PM
hey guys i have just ordered a 'grip crusser' from it has heaps of different things all to do with grip strengh some are climbing specific and they do seem alot beter than things like the grip master
1:12:38 PM
Hmmm... be careful: a lot of these sorts of products work on momentum. In other words, you will put the most effort into actually getting them started; which means you don't get a suitable "warmup". From the word go, you're hands/fingers will be under strain. Take care for injuries is all I'm saying.

2:12:29 PM
The best thing I have used is "power putty", a silicon based version of "play doh"
All sorts of exercise possibilities, great stress reliever, and it "reacts" to the amount of effort you apply. That is, if you squeeze harder, it's harder to squeeze. And it doesn't have the problem Jac's talking about. The only trick is finding it, try physio supplies
2:33:40 PM
yeah i thought of that and have got a few squash ball around the house that i will use to warm up with. the phisio was the one who actually made me aware of the product

4:14:37 PM
yeh we were talking about pla-doh a lil while back.. i ended up getting some and was using it a fair bit and now my ring finger hurts in the bottom joint which sucks big time! It could also be the bouldering but i dunno, it happened shortly after using it for like a week and not after a bouldering session. no good at all.
4:30:07 PM
the same thing happend to me when i used to use a squash ball in excess same sought of thing bottom joint however it was to my index finger. so id thought id try the gripcrusser after the phisio recomended it

5:08:39 PM
On 2/12/2003 dodgy wrote:
>The best thing I have used is "power putty", a silicon based version of
>"play doh"
>All sorts of exercise possibilities, (snip)
>The only trick is finding it, try physio supplies

Its very good stuff & comes in various degrees of 'hardness' (colour coded?), and various size containers / amounts.
I bought the pale blue coloured stuff through a chemist store, but this is probably the most expensive way to go.
I found I needed a 'large' container (similar to small plastic circular take away food containers), to get an amount similar in quantity to having a tennis ball in your hand.

You can do wicked extension exercises with it (as well as compression exercises), by making a donut and inserting fingers in the hole and then 'expanding' the donut. This also works the fore-arm!

Heavy duty workouts will leave your fingers pumped and I also find the palms of my hand become tender / sore from continual crushing type exercises, if I don't work up to long sessions over a reasonable period of time.

10:15:41 AM
Isn't the danger with these things over use?

5:09:20 PM
On 5/12/2003 Gareth wrote:
>Isn't the danger with these things over use?
The thought occurs to me that I would be better off working on my balance anyway, as I tend to 'overgrip' while climbing and get pumped too easily!
In the meantime you should see my pinchgrips & gastions!! (sp)?

There are 9 messages in this topic.


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