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General Climbing Discussion

System Holds/ Training

BadBrad of the Isles
3:35:26 PM
Hi All,

Just a few questions for anyone who's done any systems training. What holds did you use (brand or make your own)? How steep was the wall setup? How would this compare to say HIT training for effectiveness in getting stronger/ climbing harder?

Cheers, Brad.

9:50:25 AM
I just use normal gym holds on a 45 degree overhanging wall. I just make sure that I find similar holds (eg crimp, open hand, etc) to train both right and left sides. I do the exercises in both the open (with one foot and one hand off) and drop knee positions.

I've stayed away from "systems" hold per se as I want to work a variety of holds beyond what is normall included on these.

For good info and video clips - go to and look in the schoolroom section.

11:13:52 AM
Less specific equipment is required for systems - no HIT strips, no weight packs. I like using normal holds of a similar type. For HIT, half your time is spent on two finger pockets, which is for a reason, don't forget to buy some pockets and put them on your systems wall eh!

Because systems is less structured IMHO, it's easier to do sporadically as part of a general bouldering session.

I miss my woody. Where's a systems wall in Sydney?? Where's an HIT wall in Sydney?? :-(

BadBrad of the Isles
12:35:10 PM
Thanks for the feedback lads. Do slopers form some portion of the holds your training on? From checking out a few different sites it seems this is one hold type most often missing from the training range.

Cheers, Brad.
12:43:05 PM
It doesn't have to be a systems approach. You should try doing more training problems where you are simply fighting to stay on the holds/wall through every move. 1st joint, punchy and completely open with no tricks (heel/toe hooks) or technique (drop knees/flagging) required. This is how the problems were set in the legendary Schoolroom training facility.

Luckily the 50deg at St Peters is perfect for this.

There are 5 messages in this topic.


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