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General Climbing Discussion

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Hardrock in the city at last 30-Aug-2007 At 11:10:00 AM garbie

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You'll always get a few spinners on brand new walls, unless you go to extraordinary lengths, because the "virgin" t-nuts are not bedded into the plywood at the back properly - you really need to tighten them again after a period of time. They have a few things working against them with the type of walls they build: the cement render surface is not perfectly flat, so if you try to tighten the bolt enough to stop the hold spinning, the hold can crack especially if its not urethane. Secondly you can't easily put a small screw into the corner of the hold like you can with a plywood surface, and also if the surface of the new wall is sandy there's no friction to stop the hold spinning. So they pretty well need someone tightening all the bolts again, or a good system for reporting spinners & fixing them quick. One little trick we've learned - spit on the hold's washer to stop friction between the washer & the bolt head reducing the amount of load you can apply to the bolt - but if the wall is not flat & the hold is weak, you will break the hold!