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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Great second pitches

FatBoy
13/11/2003
10:25:36 AM
Hey, remember when we used to talk about climbing ?

I was thinking the other day that there seems to be a lot of routes with good second or third pitches that don't always done despite the first pitch being done, normally because they're not the crux.

Some that come to mind (at Arapiles) are:
. Kama Sutra
. Anxiety Nuerosis
. No Exit
. Orestes

Questions:
. Why does no-one do them ?
. Can you claim the ascent without having done the second pitch ? (In which case virtually no-one has done Orestes for example)
. Are there any others ?
G
13/11/2003
10:39:54 AM
Not having done any of those climbs I can't comment specifically as to why they are not done.

In general I suppose it may depend on the quality of the pitches, i.e. if a climb had an excellent first pitch which was followed by pitches of choss, I wouldn't be surprised if only the first got done. I know I have come across climbs where I wish I could skip the first pitch and go staight to ptiches 2 and 3, Sword in the Stone at Mt difficult for example. But that is getting off the topic. Alternatively, I it could also depend on why the person is doing the climb, i.e. if they just want to tick the grade of the first pitch then the effort required to turn the single pitch into a multi-pitch plus may be more effort than they want (not that there is anything wrong with that).

As for claiming the ascent, at the least I suppose you could claim the ascent of the crux pitch. However, that only really works when there is one pitch that is significantly harder than the others. In the case where there are say three ptiches all of the same grade I think it is a bit tenuous to try to claim the ascent.

nmonteith
13/11/2003
10:57:42 AM
Orestes second pitch looks a bit chossy to me. I think if you add a lower off then people take the easy option and down they come.It is certinaly the case with harder routes - as many people are working the first pitch and perhaps their partner isn't up to seconding the pitches so they lower off and clean it themselves. Properly the sport ethic emerging in trad climbing.

jens
13/11/2003
11:24:47 AM
Being a novice of sorts, I prefer to set goals of achieving entire routes. As this is the essence of climbing. You take the good with the bad. This is why climbing outdoors is different to gym climbing, otherwise you might as well have your local gym set up a wall of your favourite moves and be done with it.

Just recently I managed a 3 pitch climb, which had face climbing on the first, crack on the second and slab on the third. I never did much crack and was struggling on the second pitch, almost wishing I wasn’t there, but I persisted and toped out. The feeling I got from that achievement was awesome, and just what I was looking for! That’s what climbing is all about for me, but that comes from climbing to tops of mountains back in Austria where your goal is to get to the top. Others might just look for conquering certain moves and the crux of a route (eg. closer association to bouldering).

Each to their own, I guess. As long as you find what you’re trying to get out of climbing.

As of claiming a tick, I’m not qualified to say. Maybe guide books should have grades for individual pitches, eg. p1, p2,…etc.

People climb for personal reasons and it just depends on your motivation. Just a thought!

Jens

shiltz
13/11/2003
11:26:45 AM
A lot of people do the first pitch of Sirocco at Taipan Wall simply because it is within their ability. There are other climbs that fall into this category.
kieranl
13/11/2003
8:47:51 PM
I ran into Glenn (Natimuk local) at "Good Morning Arapiles" the other week and he asked me if I knew what the top pitch of Voodoo (18, Arapiles) was like. I said that I hadn't done it since about 1977 but I thought it was a good pitch.Hardly anyone does this pitch now and that is a shame. Despite what the guides say there is an easy downclimb from the summit (but keep the rope on); we did not abseil.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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