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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Road trip to Tassie

brat
20/04/2007
6:57:15 AM
Hi all, doing a road trip round Tassie over the next couple of weeks, we're wanting to take sport rack only and onsighting 18s (yep, minimal beta/dogging and not into whippers due to neck injury), any suggestions on best areas to visit? As we won't be focused totally on climbing is it worth taking trad gear to get best out of trip, probably able to onsight 16s trad?

muki
20/04/2007
8:13:13 AM
Hi Chris, My two cents worth would be to visit the lony gorge and do sport routes, lony is beautiful and
mellow, the other choice would be to check the new guide book to see if there are many -16 climbs at
hillwood but I doubt it? but if you do decide to take a rack then freycinet is sweet and such a beautiful
place to chill out on the beach or take hikes, and there are also loads of exellent sub-17 multi pitch
climbs at Mt Wellington above Hobart. Have fun I'm jealous.

oweng
20/04/2007
8:18:53 AM
Hi Chris,

If you only take a sports rack, and are onsighting 18 the only place you would be able to any decent amount of lead climbing would be Hillwood in the north of the state. There would probably be 10 to 20 good sports routes in the 14 to 19 range there.

Unfortunatly there is almost nothing else in the rest of the state.

I know space is tight on road trips, but I would really recommend that you bring one set of nuts, and whatever small set of cams / hexs you think you can justify. This will allow you access to the vast amount of excellent trad climbing in Cataract Gorge (centre of Launceston), and the trad climbing at Lassies Wall / Whitewater Wall area at Freycinet.

In particular Freycinet has absolutly stunning trad climbing in the 10 to 17 range on featured granite next to the ocean. Really worth checking out. You will probably go there even if just for the scenery. If you dont have a trad rack I think you will be kicking yourself.

cruze
20/04/2007
8:31:46 AM
BETA WARNING (well its in the guide anyway I guess)

You would have a day or so's fun at Hillwood leading up to 18. Freycinet is awesome in that range up to 16 or so. Plenty to do. I think that Craglets has a greater number of climbs listed, but they are easier to find in the new select guide. Around the gorge recommended as well. I would even say that if you had the chance, and took some amount of gear (set of wires, #3BDcam, small-med cams) you could make a trip out to the Moai. A couple of bolts on the route as well. It would mean that you would have to climb out, which although not technically very difficult (say 12-15), the rock is far from inspiring. The trip out there however is absolutely worth it.

brat
20/04/2007
8:57:33 AM
Thanks heaps, looks like my trad rack gets to go!

Now to break the news to Nat as I think she's packed it to ship to Brisbane!

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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