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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Should you put climbs up for others? 19-Apr-2007 At 1:14:07 PM DaCrux

Message

There are plenty of other climbs with huge run outs at Arapiles. Panzer - which is only a grade 12, has 3-4m run outs on rusty pitons - why hasn't that been bolted? Dirge is a really nice climb (well the first pitch is anyway) and I would hate to see a shiny bolt right next to it, because some people will obviously try to clip it.

On 19/04/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>I have climbed it and if there was a fall before any gear was placed
>in the roof, if a hold broke
>off in the roof, or if the fall was taken on a cam in the little shelves
>that make up the holds at the roof
>(you would have to know exactly the mechanical propertys of cams to understand
>my concerns about
>this) then the leader would hit the slab below, then rip out the RP's
>then continue to fall! the end result
>could look somthing like a post I read earlier

So many ifs. Holds can break, and gear can fail on any climb – does that mean we should bolt everything? Are bolts 100% safe?

As for your quote… climbing is dangerous. That one bolt will not stop people from falling off your route and hurting themselves. Dirge is meant to be a 17 (it’s probably only a 16). How many people do you think are gonna hurt themselves if they climb Dirge and find it easy and then decide to climb the “18” (with a shiny bolt) next to it?

Of course it’s up to you whether you bolt it or not.