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General Climbing Discussion

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looking for climbs to tick off

sticky grip

29-Mar-2007
7:54:22 PM

just looking for some popular climbs (prefferably between grade 14 - 16) to tick off the list if anybody has any suggestions they would be very appriciated.

TLockwood

29-Mar-2007
9:21:05 PM

Everything in that grade range with stars at Araps, starting with the 3 stared ones.

sticky grip

29-Mar-2007
9:43:34 PM

thanks for the tip looks like i'll have to plan a trip to the araps

thanks heaps

gordoste

30-Mar-2007
12:05:59 PM

Mt Buffalo: The Pintle LHV (16) and Big Fun (15) at the Horn. Fantasies Of Gail (15) and Banana Blase (16) on the South Side of the Gorge.
There are also quite a few other good climbs but these are the classics at those grades.

phil_nev

30-Mar-2007
12:11:45 PM

Muldoon (13)
Brolga (16) - Soo Good
Beautifull Possibilities (15)
Hell for leather (15)
Surface to air (17)

A bit harder, but highly recomend. Both have good gear and are a soft touch.
Im a little dinosaur (18)
Im a little asteroid (18)

pharmamatt

30-Mar-2007
4:22:46 PM

the climbing on hell for leather is alright but i reckon that rock and hence the gear is pretty crap by araps standard.

for an interesting 14 try toccata in the organ pipes

i have to second the suggestion that you can pick any 3 star climb at araps in that range and not be dissapointed

skink

30-Mar-2007
5:33:41 PM

On 30/03/2007 Matt78 wrote:
>for an interesting 14 try toccata in the organ pipes

You wouldn't want Toccata to be your first 14... maybe that is what the 'interesting' is alluding to...

And looking further up the thread... you probably wouldn't want Brolga to be your first 16 either.

gfdonc

30-Mar-2007
6:00:21 PM

CS Concerto on the Organ Pipes is a very underrated 2-pitch 14 IMHO.

M

30-Mar-2007
6:09:17 PM

On 30/03/2007 phil_nev wrote:

>Beautifull Possibilities (15)

I liked this route a lot but I remember that although it is quite well protected the gear is intricate for the
grade

Choosing routes depends largely how much experience you have placing gear. most of the victorian
routes at this grade require trad skills. i have tried to suggest some routes that are fairly straightforward to
protect and are worthwhile but not difficult ticks.

Lamplighter (14) great and well protected, the cruxes are probably physcological

Supoena (17) at black Ians is great and you can sew it up, this and overkill (17) at summer day valley are
close to my favourite single pitch routes in this grade range. Overkill has pretty good protection but the
crux move has the (good) gear at or just below your feet. Also flake of fear (15) in summerday is fun but i
cant remember much about the gear. Rats tail (16) and fantasm(16) at summerday are good (IMO) but
probably not so straightforward. i really liked fantasm but the crux was low and poorly protected. Texas
radio and the big beat (17) is not too bad.
Black Ians and Summerday are also both good for toproping harder stuff.

closer to melbourne and not in the same league as the other routes
nightfall (15) and silver night (16) at the you yangs are pretty good and well protected
kents sport route at big rock (14-15 ish) is an easy one to tick off
alot of the other stuff in this range in the you yangs is pretty average or scary or both
also milawa (17) at black hill is basically a sport route (with carrots) but good fun. there is some other stuff
in this range near milawa that is OK and has enough bolts.

There are also a few routes at the cathedrals that are pretty popular. check the guide

Witch (17 ish) at camels hump is definately a worthwhile tic. it has pretty good pro with good cams at the
crux but many including me find it hard at the grade. Its pretty easy to set up a toprope on.
Poxbow also 17 at camels is good but I wouldnt recommend it if 17 was your limit

The above local areas are covered in the guides on this site.

sticky grip

30-Mar-2007
6:25:53 PM

thanks heaps for your suggestions i'm sure that these will keep me busy for a while. All suggestions are very appreciated!!

lachlan

JamieF

31-Mar-2007
1:43:42 PM

Close to Melbourne I quite like the following grade 14-16 climbs (in addition to some those listed above). They're not classics, but they are all good fun and quite different to each other.

Wishful Thinking(16) and Space Jugging(15) at Camels Hump
Pull the ripcord(16) at Black Hill
Inquisition(14) at Mt Alexander
Tewkesbury(16), Nightfall(15) and Traverse of the Gonzos(14) at the You Yangs

There are 11 messages in this topic.