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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

Author
Please help me!!!
Rafa
19/03/2007
9:38:07 PM
Hello Im from spain and I want to climb in Grampians about May. I have no information about sport climbing or bulder. Id like to buy a book with the most important crags and buders but I have no idea!!! Can you give me the name of one or two good books??? Here in Spain is not easy to find information so I want to buy the books by internet. Thank you (and sorry...my english is not good)

brat
19/03/2007
10:01:07 PM
Your english is good, here less is better!

"grampians, selected climbs" by Simon Mentz and Glen Tempest is good and should be available online!

PS hope you're bring a trad rack!
sc
19/03/2007
10:14:47 PM
The "grampians , selected climbs " is very outdated and not particularly useful to europeans . I would suggest the guides on chockstone and the A C A website are far more relevant for travellers .
dalai
19/03/2007
11:12:37 PM
Australian Climbing Association (ACA) website - http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=33®ion_id=9

Grampian Select Guidebook is available through this sites sponsor http://www.rockhardware.com.au/Order.asp?Action=View&StockCode=8002&MainGroup=Media

Enjoy your visit! May is a great month to climb in Victoria...
WM
20/03/2007
9:49:34 AM
More free info about the Grampians is available online:

http://www.chockstone.org/Grampians/Sport/Grampians_sport.html
http://www.chockstone.org/Grampians/Grampians.htm
http://www.geocities.com/willmonks/gramps.htm

brat
20/03/2007
10:08:12 AM
On 19/03/2007 sc wrote:
>The "grampians , selected climbs " is very outdated and not particularly
>useful to europeans . I would suggest the guides on chockstone and the
>A C A website are far more relevant for travellers .

Huh, please explain????

How do climbs get outdated, are the maps wrong, why is it not useful???? I'm in the Gramps at the moment, looks OK to me??
gfdonc
20/03/2007
10:11:09 AM
Disagree. Grampians Selected Climbs will give you lots to do plus background info that might not be so easy to obtain or carry online.

But bear in mind:
- lots of sports crags have been developed
- Mt Rosea and Bundaleer (both feature prominently in the guide) are still closed at present

nmonteith
20/03/2007
11:04:07 AM
Roads have been re-directed or closed, campsites have moved and there has been substantial
develpment at Stapylton and the Victoria Ranges. There are also several three star areas that were
excluded because of climbing bans, which have since been lifted (ie Muline, Emu Rock and Hollywood
Bowl). It's badly in need of revision.
WM
20/03/2007
11:48:13 AM
>It's badly in need of revision.

Agreed - lost Euros stumbling around the gramps is becoming the norm. Any guidebook work is to be applauded, but I've been wishing for years that the makeover efforts on the Araps guide could be put into the Gramps guide instead ... the existing Araps Select is in much less need of an update than the Gramps Select.

nmonteith
20/03/2007
11:56:38 AM
On 20/03/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>- Mt Rosea and Bundaleer (both feature prominently in the guide) are still
>closed at present

Don't forget Wall of China, Elephants Hide and Mackys Peak are also still banned (i think).
simey
21/03/2007
11:10:39 AM
On 20/03/2007 WM wrote:
>>It's badly in need of revision.
>
>Agreed - lost Euros stumbling around the gramps is becoming the norm. Any guidebook work is to be applauded, but I've been wishing for years that the makeover efforts on the Araps guide could be put into the Gramps guide instead ... the existing Araps Select is in much less need of an update than the Gramps Select.

I agree that Grampians Select is more in need of revision than Arapiles Select. The main reason we chose to revise Arapiles Select was that we either had to reprint it in its current form or put out a new edition. I thought it would be pretty quick to knock out a new edition and one year later (having thought it would only take us about three months) we are still working on it. Oh well. The mistakes we have made and the lessons we have learnt whilst putting together this Araps guide will be invaluable knowledge for when we start working on a new Gramps guide.



MichaelOR
21/03/2007
1:22:42 PM
The Grampians Select Guide set new standards in Guidebook editing when it was published all those years ago. It was the sole reason why I started to climb predominently in the Grampians, instead of a mix of Arapiles and Summerday Valley. The maps, topos and route descriptions, as well as the interest and history, enabled me to visit other great crags without someone to 'guide me' to the cliff. Now I rarely visit Arapiles or even Summerday Valley. Thanks Simey and Glenn.

The problem now is that it is well overdue for a new edition - and much revised as well. The original edition probably inspired others to venture further into the Gramps as well. There has been a large amount of development in the Grampians since it was published. It is this development which has rendered the original guide 'dated'. Yes, the cliffs in the original guide are still there but it is the absence of all these 'new' cliffs which is the problem.

Visiting Euros, with light racks, are also more likely to want to visit more of the sport/mixed crags ....... nearly all of which have been recently developed. Beginning leaders from the gyms may want to start on sport routes before learning 'the art of trad'. There IS a market for a new Gramps Select Guide. Having the new crags in the guide will make life a lot easier for climbers.
Simey wrote:
"The mistakes we have made and the lessons we have learnt whilst putting together this Araps guide will be invaluable knowledge for when we start working on a new Gramps guide."

That's great news. I thought a new Grampians Select Guide was out of the question. Now I'm looking forward to the next edition .... with all it's new crags, photo topos etc. When it is published, together with Mick Hampton's 'Vic Range' complete guide, the Grampians climbers will be deservedly well looked after.
Michael


Rafa
28/03/2007
8:28:05 PM
Thanks!!

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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